Take your instruments apart

I highly recommend taking your instruments apart.

Here’s why:

  • There’s no better way to understand the workings of a mechanical device like a woodwind instrument than to take it apart and put it back together again. They’re your tools. You should understand how they work.
  • Take ownership of your instrument’s maintenance. Discover problems that need a repair tech’s attention BEFORE they affect your playing at an inopportune time. Or, even better, use your newfound confidence with a screwdriver to fix minor problems yourself, and consider learning how to change a pad, or at least a cork.
  • Keep your instrument sparkling. With your horn in pieces, you can easily get into the nooks and crannies to remove dust and gunk. Your instrument will shine like new, your mechanisms will move smoothly and quietly, and you’ll feel good about treating your precious horn with such loving care.


Here are some tips:

  • Arrange your workspace. A large, clean workbench is ideal, but I’ve done this many times by spreading an old bedsheet on the floor. That way, when (not if, but when) I drop a tiny pivot screw or something, I know it can’t have gone far. Plus I have plenty of space to…
  • Lay out the parts in the order you remove them. Put them back on in reverse order.
  • Take your time. If you’re like me, you’ll find that sometimes you put a part back on, and then have to remove it again to get another part in place. Be patient. Don’t rush it.
  • Use the right tools. You need screwdrivers that are a good fit for the screws. Using the wrong size increases the chance of scratching something, damaging a screw, or even accidental stabbing. For a few dollars, you can get a little set of screwdrivers at most any hardware store. There are usually six of them in a little plastic case. You won’t need the Phillips head screwdrivers, but the flat-head screwdrivers will meet most of your instrument-disassembly needs. Note: I’ve seen similar screwdriver sets at dollar stores, and they aren’t as good. The metal is soft and the heads are sometimes misshapen. Go for the better set at the hardware store.
  • The trickiest thing to deal with are springs. They can stab you, catch on your clothes, or even break off if you get too violent. Be cautious and everything will be fine. A small crochet hook is handy for getting springs into (or out of) place. I used a Dremel rotary tool’s cutting wheel to put a notch in the other end of the crochet hook, so now I can either push or pull on springs with it.
  • While you’ve got the instrument taken apart, clean and lubricate everything. Use Q-Tips or pipe cleaners (but be careful of the inner wires) to get the crud out of the keys and instrument body. Use a soft, damp rag to wipe the stickiness off the toneholes. If you’re comfortable with it, you can also clean the pads. I like a slightly-moistened Q-Tip for this. Some people recommend lighter fluid or other solvents; I just use water, but that’s up to you.
  • Run a pipe cleaner carefully through the tubes of the keywork, and wipe off the inner rods. That black stuff is old lubricant mixed with very fine metal dust from the gradual wear on your mechanisms. Clean it off and apply fresh oil to keep your mechanism quiet and slow down the wear and tear. Use your favorite key oil—there are lots of conflicting recommendations out there for which product to use. Personally I like to use automotive gear oil, since it gives a nice smooth feel and you can buy a lifetime supply for a few bucks. Sometimes knowledgeable people warn about the dangers of various lubricants, but those doomsday scenarios all seem to involve leaving the lubricant alone for a very long time so that it can gum up or whatever. I clean and lube my instruments minimum once a year, so I figure I’m okay.
  • Saxophone and bassoon rollers tend to be noisy, and they fit loosely enough that key oil just drips out. Try cork grease instead to keep these quiet. I like the gooey red liquid stuff from Selmer (USA?) for this. Try not to get it on your hands, because it takes forever to wash off.
  • Don’t forget to do a quick playtest when you put the instrument back together. I often miss re-engaging a spring or two. Easily remedied.
  • If you’re nervous about doing it, start with your clarinet, especially the upper joint. It has few parts and they go back together easily. (If you’re REALLY nervous, buy a junker clarinet on eBay for a few bucks and experiment on it.) I think oboes are the most complicated.

Have fun!

Similar Posts

  • Do it yourself: replace saxophone palm key pads

    If you’re interested in learning to do some pad replacements on your instrument(s), saxophone left-hand palm keys are a good place to start. Here’s why:

    • The palm keys don’t have any dependencies—they don’t move any other keys and aren’t moved by any other keys. So replacing a palm key pad won’t set off a chain reaction of adjustments you have to make to the instrument’s mechanism.
    • The palm keys are sprung to sit closed when you’re not pressing them, which means that the spring will help you get the pad seated, instead of getting in your way. It will also press the pad firmly against the tonehole, overcoming small imperfections in your padding technique. With keys that sit open on their own, the padding has to be extra skilled so you can use a feather-light touch when you play.
    • The palm keys are long, so you’re less likely to burn your fingers.
    • When you’re playing, the palm key pads take the brunt of the condensation from your breath, so they need relatively frequent replacement anyway. I bet yours could stand replacing.

    I’ll walk you through this. I perhaps should confess that I am not NAPBIRT certified or anything fancy like that. You undertake this at your own risk, etc.

    First, remove the key by unscrewing the pivot rod and pulling it out.
  • What are registers?

    “Registers” are a tricky concept in woodwind playing. Here’s how they work.

    For simplicity’s sake, let’s say I am playing a flute with a C footjoint. If I finger a low C, that closes all the instrument’s toneholes and produces a C4:

    Make your own woodwind fingering diagrams: fingering.bretpimentel.com

    As I work my way up the chromatic scale, I gradually open more and more of the flute’s holes. When I reach C-sharp 5, I run out of holes to open. (Using standard fingerings, that is.) To continue upward, the fingerings sort of restart—I close a bunch of toneholes again, fingering D5 in almost the same way I played D4. By the time I get to E5 I am using fingerings identical to the ones from an octave lower.

    I can play higher notes using the same fingerings I used for lower ones because I have moved into a higher register, which in this case is an octave above the lower register. On flute, I do this by changing something about my tone production; on reed instruments I get extra help from octave/register/”whisper” keys.

    If I continue my scale up to C-sharp 6, I run out of toneholes again, and move up to the third register, which is a fifth higher than the second. To play D6, I use a fingering that looks similar to G5, but sounds a fifth higher.

    So, for typical flute playing situations, we can consider the second register to begin at D5, and the third to begin at D6.

    But this doesn’t paint a complete picture in terms of the instrument’s acoustical properties. When the fingerings “start over” at D5, that’s not really starting over—I have left out the low C and C-sharp fingerings. And it turns out I can in fact play C5 and C-sharp 5 using those fingerings. The reason that flutists typically don’t is that the “standard” fingerings (with most of the toneholes opened) happen to work better for most situations, with regard to pitch, tone, and/or response. Likewise, when I reach C-sharp 5 and C-sharp 6, I haven’t completely run out of toneholes to open. If I open everything I have left (both trill keys, plus maybe the G-sharp key) I can get up to about D-sharp in either octave. But I usually don’t do that unless I have a special reason, because the standard fingerings are more usable.

    And starting the third register on D6 with an adapted “G” fingering raises this question again, but with an even larger gap. What about third-register notes using the fingerings from “low C” up to “F-sharp?” The answer is that those fingerings work, too (producing G up to C-sharp, an octave plus a fifth above the corresponding low-register fingerings). But, again, they aren’t as useful because of their pitch, tone, and response characteristics.

    So from an acoustical standpoint the first and second registers overlap in the C5-D-sharp 5 range, and the second and third overlap in the G5-D-sharp 6 range.

    When there’s overlap, there are fingering options available. The “standard” fingerings are the ones that have been chosen over the centuries by flutists as the ones best suited to most situations, but the others (sometimes called “overtone” fingerings or “harmonic” fingerings) can be used to good musical effect at times.

    The flute and most of the reed instruments follow the same pattern of registers: the second register is an octave above the first, and the third is a fifth above that. Additional registers above those are also used sometimes, spaced with increasingly small intervals. This series of intervals is a naturally-occurring phenomenon known as the harmonic series.

    The clarinet is an exception; due to its acoustical characteristics it uses only every other harmonic. This is why the clarinet doesn’t have an “octave” key, it has a “register” key that skips the octave register and goes straight to an octave plus a fifth.

    Understanding registers is helpful in navigating between them and in finding alternate fingerings for special situations. Happy practicing!

  • Which instrument to “start” on

    Every so often I am told by a band director or parent that a child wishes to play a certain woodwind instrument, and then I am asked which instrument the student should “start” on, instead of the one they have apparently already chosen.

    I don’t see a good reason, at least within the woodwind group, for a beginner to start on a different instrument family than the one they ultimately wish to play. There may be wisdom in some cases in requiring a beginner to start with a “main” family member: a student who really wants to play the piccolo, for example, will find their opportunities limited if they do not have a strong foundation in the flute—they will be of less usefulness to a school band program, and, should they continue to more advanced studies, may find the piccolo’s repertoire and pedagogical resources comparatively limited. I also think the piccolo is inherently a bit more difficult to play, although that in itself is not sufficient reason to deter a strongly-motivated student; however, for some students a more difficult instrument might be frustrating enough to bring their musical pursuits to a premature end. I likewiseĀ generally recommend that oboists start with the oboe rather than the English horn, clarinetists start on the B-flat instrument rather than a “harmony” clarinet, bassoonists leave the contrabassoon until later, and saxophonists start on the alto, or maybe the tenor.

    Photo, Herald Post
    Photo, Herald Post

    But I also sometimes run into an attitude that, for example, an aspiring saxophonist really should start on the clarinet. This, I believe, comes from an outdated school of thought that considers the saxophone a “color” instrument in the clarinet family, and concludes that you should start with the “main” instrument, the clarinet, in the same way that you would start with the flute and later add the piccolo. (It may even stem from a more outdated idea that the saxophone is vulgar or a novelty, while the clarinet is respectable.)Ā But surely the saxophone has by now earned full membership in the wind band and has a sufficiently rich solo and chamber repertoire that it need not be seen merely as the clarinet’s half-sibling. Read More “Which instrument to “start” on”

  • David Erato on his clarinet “journey”

    David Erato, aĀ Wisconsin-based woodwind doubler and teacher,Ā describes the motivation behind his year-long “journey” to improve his clarinet chops:

    The idea as a “doubler” is to make whatever instrument is in your hand not feel like a foreign object. One should really study the instrument as if it is the only instrument you play. Practice the same method books,Ā etudes, solos, as a clarinetist in a symphony once did.

    David devised a plan to work his way through a book of technical etudes, and carried it out. His plan was based on the a similar system he had used as a university saxophone student. The result?

    I can say after all of that, I really do feel like I’ve taken my technique game up several notches on clarinet. Ā It may be hard to believe, but about half way through the book I felt more connected to the instrument. Ā Even though I was in more difficult keys, larger interval jumps became easier than when I started. Ā By the end of it, I didn’t have to think much about playing 4ths in the key of D# harmonic minor.

    It’s worth reading the whole thing. There’s one key point from David’s story that I’ve discussed here before, but which is worth restating: as a woodwind doubler, you have to be a beginner on each instrument. DavidĀ had already completed a technique-building regimen on the saxophone, prescribed by a good saxophone teacher, but hadn’t done so yet on the clarinet. Many of us make the mistake of thinking that such things transfer automatically. They don’t!

    I know that many of my readers are college students and/or educators, and may have some discretionary time coming up when the spring semester ends. What fundamental techniques can you spend the summer shoring up?

  • Doubling reed tip from Lawrie Bloom

    Lawrie Bloom, solo bass clarinetist of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra, starts this video talking about his reed break-in process, but spends some time toward the end (start at about 2:45 to cut to the chase) talking about his strategy for doubling clarinet and bass clarinet in a symphonic setting.

    Mr. Bloom recommends using slightly softer reeds than usual to compensate for the fact that the reeds will be somewhat drier than optimal, and using a mouthpiece cap whenever possible. Read More “Doubling reed tip from Lawrie Bloom”

  • Clarinet glissando

    There are few more coveted clarinet techniques than the smooth glissando, as heard in the famous opening to Rhapsody in Blue. But the technique isn’t intuitive, and lots of questions persist about how to do it.

    (Incidentally: the Rhapsody in Blue score doesn’t call for a smooth portamento-type effect, but a scale with discrete notes. But the portamento became tradition early in the piece’s life and is now more or less required.)

    How the clarinet glissando is done, technique-wise

    One key thing to understand is that finger movement is the smallest part of the clarinet glissando. It’s not possible (or at least I’ve never seen it done) to achieve the full effect by simply uncovering toneholes gradually. The real work here is done with voicing.

    Let’s break the technique down. We’ll use Rhapsody in Blue as an example, but the principles can be applied to other repertoire (or improvisations).

    First, let’s look at what’s called for in the score:

    clarinet glissando notation from Rhapsody in Blue

    Glissandos that cross register breaks are a particular challenge, so most clarinetists avoid that, opting to play a scale in the lower register, and beginning the glissando at the lower-clarion B or C.

    High C is the destination note. Start by playing that note and using your voicing (think of blowing warmer air) to bend the pitch downward. Resist the urge to “lip” it down with your embouchure muscles or to let your breath support sag.

    Bend it down absolutely as far as you can, until the note quits. It can take some practice to get a wide pitch bend range. Don’t strain; play around with it for a few minutes, then try again tomorrow.

    Once you’re able to bend it fairly far, try kicking in some extra breath support. The air column is reluctant to vibrate when it’s bent too far (I’m fudging a little here on the acoustics). Use powerful air, even more powerful than usual, to make it keep vibrating, and see if you can bend even farther.

    Now go to the lower part of the glissando, B or C in the staff. Try to bend it. You probably can’t bend this long-tube note, with lots of closed toneholes, nearly as much as you could bend the short-tube high C.

    Now play the note, and gradually let your fingers lift, just a little bit, off the toneholes.

    Notice that with the toneholes just slightly vented, the note becomes much less stable—or more bendable. Play around with the pitch to get the feel of it.

    Now play the lowest note of the glissando (I’m using C here for simplicity). Move the fingers a little off their toneholes (all of them, except the left thumb, which stays in position for high C) while simultaneously bending the pitch down hard with voicing. (Remember to keep breath support strong.) While gradually moving the fingers farther off the toneholes, bend gradually upward with voicing. As the fingers finally completely clear the toneholes, the voicing arrives at its standard high position, and the pitch settles in on high C.

    It takes practice to get the fingers and voicing coordinated, and to gain enough control to shape the bend just how you want it.

    To execute the Rhapsody in Blue opening, play a scale in the lower register, then switch as seamlessly as possible to a glissando just above the register break. Some players play the scale portion as written, but some attempt to make it sound more glissando-like by turning it into a chromatic scale. Sometimes they also start the scale on chalumeau F-sharp rather than the written G.

    How the clarinet glissando is done, taste-wise

    Mastering the technique of the glissando, like mastering any technique, is only the first step. The next and perhaps more important step is to learn to do it with good musical taste.

    When performing a glissando, carefully consider the shape of the pitch bend. How long is the bend overall? Should the pitch move in a straight line from one pitch to another? (Unlikely.) Should it have more of a curve, staying low at first and then rising at an increasing rate? Should there be a moment at the beginning or end at which the pitch remains stable, or is it constantly in motion?

    These are fine distinctions, but important to the character of the glissando. Careful, detailed listening is crucial to the process—be sure to check out as many good recordings as you can, and note the differences in approach. If your intention is for the glissando to sound jazz-like, make sure you are listening to jazz players who use that effect, not just classical players who may or may not have done their homework.

    Why it’s a clarinet-specific effect

    The clarinet, unlike any of the other major modern wind instruments, uses a very high voicing for general playing. This leaves room to lower the voicing considerably for this special glissando effect. Flutes and double reeds (and brass instruments) use a very low voicing, which theoretically can be raised, but a raised voicing on a low-voicing instrument doesn’t cover as much territory pitch-wise; in other words, it’s harder to raise the pitch with voicing than it is to lower it. The saxophones, with an in-between voicing, have some flexibility here, but also have to contend with large keys on large toneholes, which are not as precise for hole-uncovering as fingertips on small clarinet toneholes. (The keys situation also explains why the larger clarinets aren’t nearly as agile with glissandos, even though those instruments are properly played with a high voicing.) In short, the technique lends itself particularly to the high clarinets, and may be much more difficult on other woodwinds.

    Practice smart!

6 Comments

  1. Hi Bret,

    I’m a retired NYC teacher and amateur jazz musician, studying with a New York pro who just told me to get Jean Jean’s “Vade Mecum.” I stumbled onto your great website and your piece. “Take Your Instrument Apart.” I’m scared to try that on my Buffet clarinet. However, the NYC school down the street threw out 2 Bundy saxes – 1 tenor and one bary- that I’d like to get in shape, the bary especially. Local sax technicians want $$$$ to overhaul it and I’ve been thinking of just buying a new one. Would it be worth tackling the bary as a starter project? I’ve got a workbench for the job.

    I’m eager to hear your opinion!

    Thanks,

    Brad Baker
    bakermusic2@yahoo.com

  2. Hi Brad,

    A discarded saxophone would be a great first instrument to take apart, clean and lube, and reassemble!

    However, if it’s in rough enough shape that a school actually threw it away, it likely needs more than just cleaning and oil. A professional overhaul would probably include all new pads, corks, felts, and a number of other repairs and adjustments.

    So, it may be worth it to you to get a little hands-on experience with this horn, but it may still need some professional attention before it plays well (or at all!).

    Good luck!

  3. Hi Bret !

    Following your wise advice I just took the upper joint of my clarinet apart.

    I used some white spirit for the extra grease. I think I could use some kind of silver special cleaner to make it shiny but I’ve got no time to go to the store as I need my clarinet for this evening…

    I guess that next time I’ll have all the tools ready before I start taking it apart.

    I’ll also have to buy new Q-tips. I just left two to clean my ears for this evening’s rehearsal ;)

    All the Best,

    Pierre

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