Do it yourself: replace saxophone palm key pads

If you’re interested in learning to do some pad replacements on your instrument(s), saxophone left-hand palm keys are a good place to start. Here’s why:

  • The palm keys don’t have any dependencies—they don’t move any other keys and aren’t moved by any other keys. So replacing a palm key pad won’t set off a chain reaction of adjustments you have to make to the instrument’s mechanism.
  • The palm keys are sprung to sit closed when you’re not pressing them, which means that the spring will help you get the pad seated, instead of getting in your way. It will also press the pad firmly against the tonehole, overcoming small imperfections in your padding technique. With keys that sit open on their own, the padding has to be extra skilled so you can use a feather-light touch when you play.
  • The palm keys are long, so you’re less likely to burn your fingers.
  • When you’re playing, the palm key pads take the brunt of the condensation from your breath, so they need relatively frequent replacement anyway. I bet yours could stand replacing.

I’ll walk you through this. I perhaps should confess that I am not NAPBIRT certified or anything fancy like that. You undertake this at your own risk, etc.

First, remove the key by unscrewing the pivot rod and pulling it out.
If you’ve got a good key lubricant handy, then you might as well clean the pivot rod and tube and relubricate. I use an automotive gear oil (not motor oil), but there are plenty of commercial key oils available for purchase if you prefer. As a matter of policy, all instrument repairers disagree with each other on what you should use, so exercise your best judgment.

I like to clean any gunk off the tonehole, as well:

Next, heat the pad cup to liquefy the glue or shellac. I use an inexpensive butane torch that I got from a hardware store.

Too much heat can scorch the lacquer, so go slowly and be patient. Often, when the glue starts to liquefy, the pad will start to lift out of the pad cup on its own. If not, you can poke the pad with something (not a finger—it’s hot) and see if it’s loose yet.

The adhesive under this pad is clear, so it’s most likely the kind of glue that is used in hot glue guns. You can get it from a craft store. A brownish shellac is more traditional, but seems to be losing popularity. You can get it from places that sell instrument repair supplies.

This pad has the size indicated right on it, so I know which size to replace it with.

But pads are easy enough to measure, especially if you have a cheap caliper. Match the thickness of the original pad, too.

MusicMedic.com is a good place to buy pads (and other supplies) for do-it-yourself repairs, since they will let you buy pads individually, instead of hundreds at a time. If you’re not in a hurry, you can take out the pads that need replacing, measure them, and then place an order for exactly what you need. The pads already on this horn are tan leather with a brown plastic resonator, so that’s what I’m replacing them with, but there are lots of other options.

If you’ve already got pads and the adhesive is still warm enough to be in a liquid state, you can put the new pad right in. Otherwise you’ll need to reheat the pad cup first. If you need to add adhesive, you can heat the pad cup and sort of paint some in there with the stick of glue or shellac. Or put some shavings from the stick into the pad cup and then heat it.

Plop the new pad into place.

If you act quickly, you can put the key back on the instrument while the glue is still liquid, and the pad will hopefully settle right in. If you’re slow or if the pad doesn’t seem to be contacting the tonehole completely, add a little gentle heat to re-soften the glue, then press and release the key a few times. The pressure from the spring will help guide the pad into place.

If the pad still seems to be leaking, you may have a pad that isn’t flat. Or you may have a tonehole that isn’t level, or a key that is a little bent (either of these can be quickly and easily fixed by your favorite professional saxophone technician). But if the old pad was seating well, chances are that a good new one will, too.

Let the glue cool thoroughly, and you’re all done! Nice job.

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    In a recent recital I performed my own arrangement of Ravel’s Boléro for multiple woodwinds soloist using electronics, with piano and snare drum. I used electronics to try to approximate some of Ravel’s harmonies (and timbres), and used what in my mind are three different techniques, which I’ll try to outline here.

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    At rehearsal mark 8 in the score, horn and celeste play the A theme in octaves, with two piccolos playing in parallel a perfect fifth and a major tenth above the celeste’s highest octave, perhaps in imitation of a pipe organ’s mixture stop.

    To achieve this harmony with electronics, I played the upper piccolo part “live,” and routed the piccolo’s sound into the GT-1000CORE where I split it into two separate signal paths. One got transposed down using a digital pitch shifter to create the second piccolo part. The other got transposed down to the melody pitch and split into octaves, then routed through the SY-200 to turn the sound into something vaguely celeste-like.

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    At rehearsal mark 16, a thickly-orchestrated ensemble of woodwinds, brass, and strings plays the A theme in harmony. I opted to play this portion on soprano saxophone, thickened and harmonized with a synthesized string section.

    Since the harmony in this section is largely diatonic, I used the GT-1000CORE’s smart harmonizer. I added voices a diatonic fourth and diatonic sixth below in the key of G (like a first-inversion triad), which tracks with the notes in the first part of the theme. But there’s a moment in the first part that uses F-natural instead of F-sharp, and the second part of the melody uses F-naturals exclusively, so I used the unit’s footswitches to change to the key of C major as needed. I routed all of this through the SY-200 to change the three soprano saxophones into a string section sound, with the “live” soprano remaining audible in the room.

    For the key switching, I set one footswitch as a “momentary” switch, so it changes the key just while I’m pressing it, and another as a “toggle” switch, so I can press and release it and the key remains changed. This gives me some helpful options for live performance.

    Technique 3: smart harmonization with custom scales

    The smart harmonizer works well out of the box as long as you want to use notes of a major scale (or mode thereof), but at rehearsal mark 15 Ravel’s harmonization is more complicated than that. Luckily, the GT-1000CORE supports smart harmonization with custom “scales.” What this really means is that I can tell the unit that any time I play a certain pitch, it should add one or more pitches that I can specify arbitrarily. I can add whatever pitches I like to each note of the chromatic scale.

    I chose to play this section on clarinet, using the electronics to turn it into a 3-part clarinet section. During the first phrase, the melody pitches are harmonized in a consistent way: every time there’s a melody concert B-flat it’s harmonized with a G and an E, every time there’s a melody C it’s harmonized with an A and an F, every time there’s a melody E it’s harmonized with a C and a G, and so forth. I can just tell the effects unit which harmony notes to add to each melody note.

    But things change in the first half of the second phrase: melody B-flat is now harmonized with G and D, and C is now harmonized with A and E. To accommodate this I have to create a second custom “scale,” and use a footswitch to activate it at the right time. To finish the second phrase requires a third scale, engaged with another footswitch.

    Because of the flexibility of the custom scale system, I can recreate harmonies that use a variety of intervals. With a little analysis I can figure out where the scale changes need to be (basically anywhere a given melody pitch is harmonized in a new way).

    Additional thoughts

    There are some limitations to using pitch shifters and harmonizers, depending on your equipment. Each virtual pitch shifter and harmonizer in the GT-1000CORE can only add two voices, though by (virtually) splitting the audio signal into multiple paths and passing each through its own shifter/harmonizer I can build thicker chords.

    When trying to reproduce specific harmonies written by a composer, there may be some decisions to make to balance accuracy with practicality. Serendipitously, most of Ravel’s harmony translated fairly easily to the effects unit’s capabilities. But there were a few spots where I decided that certain chord voicings were close enough, and that I didn’t need to complicate things with one more custom scale plus the corresponding onstage footwork.

    As I’ve mentioned previously, I’m more interested in electronic effects that give my woodwinds new capabilities, like polyphony, than in just adding some distortion or echo (though those are also fun). Enjoy!

5 Comments

  1. A few additional comments that I’ve learned as an instrument manufacturer, if you don’t mind, Bret:

    – If you stick a pin in the side of the pad and lift while heading the pad cup with a torch, you are likely to lift a higher percentage of the shellac (or glue) out of the pad cup when removing the pad.

    – You can further clean the pad cup once the pad is removed by heating it again and wiping the excess shellac from the inside with a shop rag.

    – Acetone is your best friend when it comes to cleaning the dirty oil off of arbors and shellac from pad cups. You can store a pint or so in a Nalgene bottle, since the acetone will likely slowly dissolve the inside of other types of plastic containers.

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