Take your instruments apart

I highly recommend taking your instruments apart.

Here’s why:

  • There’s no better way to understand the workings of a mechanical device like a woodwind instrument than to take it apart and put it back together again. They’re your tools. You should understand how they work.
  • Take ownership of your instrument’s maintenance. Discover problems that need a repair tech’s attention BEFORE they affect your playing at an inopportune time. Or, even better, use your newfound confidence with a screwdriver to fix minor problems yourself, and consider learning how to change a pad, or at least a cork.
  • Keep your instrument sparkling. With your horn in pieces, you can easily get into the nooks and crannies to remove dust and gunk. Your instrument will shine like new, your mechanisms will move smoothly and quietly, and you’ll feel good about treating your precious horn with such loving care.


Here are some tips:

  • Arrange your workspace. A large, clean workbench is ideal, but I’ve done this many times by spreading an old bedsheet on the floor. That way, when (not if, but when) I drop a tiny pivot screw or something, I know it can’t have gone far. Plus I have plenty of space to…
  • Lay out the parts in the order you remove them. Put them back on in reverse order.
  • Take your time. If you’re like me, you’ll find that sometimes you put a part back on, and then have to remove it again to get another part in place. Be patient. Don’t rush it.
  • Use the right tools. You need screwdrivers that are a good fit for the screws. Using the wrong size increases the chance of scratching something, damaging a screw, or even accidental stabbing. For a few dollars, you can get a little set of screwdrivers at most any hardware store. There are usually six of them in a little plastic case. You won’t need the Phillips head screwdrivers, but the flat-head screwdrivers will meet most of your instrument-disassembly needs. Note: I’ve seen similar screwdriver sets at dollar stores, and they aren’t as good. The metal is soft and the heads are sometimes misshapen. Go for the better set at the hardware store.
  • The trickiest thing to deal with are springs. They can stab you, catch on your clothes, or even break off if you get too violent. Be cautious and everything will be fine. A small crochet hook is handy for getting springs into (or out of) place. I used a Dremel rotary tool’s cutting wheel to put a notch in the other end of the crochet hook, so now I can either push or pull on springs with it.
  • While you’ve got the instrument taken apart, clean and lubricate everything. Use Q-Tips or pipe cleaners (but be careful of the inner wires) to get the crud out of the keys and instrument body. Use a soft, damp rag to wipe the stickiness off the toneholes. If you’re comfortable with it, you can also clean the pads. I like a slightly-moistened Q-Tip for this. Some people recommend lighter fluid or other solvents; I just use water, but that’s up to you.
  • Run a pipe cleaner carefully through the tubes of the keywork, and wipe off the inner rods. That black stuff is old lubricant mixed with very fine metal dust from the gradual wear on your mechanisms. Clean it off and apply fresh oil to keep your mechanism quiet and slow down the wear and tear. Use your favorite key oil—there are lots of conflicting recommendations out there for which product to use. Personally I like to use automotive gear oil, since it gives a nice smooth feel and you can buy a lifetime supply for a few bucks. Sometimes knowledgeable people warn about the dangers of various lubricants, but those doomsday scenarios all seem to involve leaving the lubricant alone for a very long time so that it can gum up or whatever. I clean and lube my instruments minimum once a year, so I figure I’m okay.
  • Saxophone and bassoon rollers tend to be noisy, and they fit loosely enough that key oil just drips out. Try cork grease instead to keep these quiet. I like the gooey red liquid stuff from Selmer (USA?) for this. Try not to get it on your hands, because it takes forever to wash off.
  • Don’t forget to do a quick playtest when you put the instrument back together. I often miss re-engaging a spring or two. Easily remedied.
  • If you’re nervous about doing it, start with your clarinet, especially the upper joint. It has few parts and they go back together easily. (If you’re REALLY nervous, buy a junker clarinet on eBay for a few bucks and experiment on it.) I think oboes are the most complicated.

Have fun!

Similar Posts

  • Staying connected to the clarinet

    Photo, KSMF Webmaster

    In general, I’m not that concerned about keeping fingers close to instrument keys. A lot of woodwind players and teachers seem to believe that “close” fingers mean more speed, which I haven’t found necessarily to be the case. To me, a much larger factor is tension: if my fingers are tense (because, for example, I’m trying really hard to keep them close to the keys), they move more slowly.

    But when I work with beginning clarinetists (whether first-time instrumentalists or doublers), many of them seem to have a great deal of trouble with squeaks and with notes responding sluggishly—problems that I think in most cases can be traced to fingers not completely covering toneholes, or not covering them in a synchronized way. And one of the major reasons that this happens is that the fingers are too detached from from the keys. It’s not a question of distance, per se,  but one of awareness.

    One reason this is such an issue for clarinetists in particular is that so many fingers have multiple jobs. The left thumb operates a tonehole/ring and a key, which must sometimes be pressed individually and sometimes together. The left index finger has a tonehole/ring and two keys. The right index finger has a tonehole/ring and four “side” keys. And the pinky fingers have responsibilities exceeded only by the bassoonist’s thumbs. Throw in a couple of sliver keys, and you’ve got a lot of fingers constantly in transit from one key to another. Read More “Staying connected to the clarinet”

  • Clarinet glissando

    There are few more coveted clarinet techniques than the smooth glissando, as heard in the famous opening to Rhapsody in Blue. But the technique isn’t intuitive, and lots of questions persist about how to do it.

    (Incidentally: the Rhapsody in Blue score doesn’t call for a smooth portamento-type effect, but a scale with discrete notes. But the portamento became tradition early in the piece’s life and is now more or less required.)

    How the clarinet glissando is done, technique-wise

    One key thing to understand is that finger movement is the smallest part of the clarinet glissando. It’s not possible (or at least I’ve never seen it done) to achieve the full effect by simply uncovering toneholes gradually. The real work here is done with voicing.

    Let’s break the technique down. We’ll use Rhapsody in Blue as an example, but the principles can be applied to other repertoire (or improvisations).

    First, let’s look at what’s called for in the score:

    clarinet glissando notation from Rhapsody in Blue

    Glissandos that cross register breaks are a particular challenge, so most clarinetists avoid that, opting to play a scale in the lower register, and beginning the glissando at the lower-clarion B or C.

    High C is the destination note. Start by playing that note and using your voicing (think of blowing warmer air) to bend the pitch downward. Resist the urge to “lip” it down with your embouchure muscles or to let your breath support sag.

    Bend it down absolutely as far as you can, until the note quits. It can take some practice to get a wide pitch bend range. Don’t strain; play around with it for a few minutes, then try again tomorrow.

    Once you’re able to bend it fairly far, try kicking in some extra breath support. The air column is reluctant to vibrate when it’s bent too far (I’m fudging a little here on the acoustics). Use powerful air, even more powerful than usual, to make it keep vibrating, and see if you can bend even farther.

    Now go to the lower part of the glissando, B or C in the staff. Try to bend it. You probably can’t bend this long-tube note, with lots of closed toneholes, nearly as much as you could bend the short-tube high C.

    Now play the note, and gradually let your fingers lift, just a little bit, off the toneholes.

    Notice that with the toneholes just slightly vented, the note becomes much less stable—or more bendable. Play around with the pitch to get the feel of it.

    Now play the lowest note of the glissando (I’m using C here for simplicity). Move the fingers a little off their toneholes (all of them, except the left thumb, which stays in position for high C) while simultaneously bending the pitch down hard with voicing. (Remember to keep breath support strong.) While gradually moving the fingers farther off the toneholes, bend gradually upward with voicing. As the fingers finally completely clear the toneholes, the voicing arrives at its standard high position, and the pitch settles in on high C.

    It takes practice to get the fingers and voicing coordinated, and to gain enough control to shape the bend just how you want it.

    To execute the Rhapsody in Blue opening, play a scale in the lower register, then switch as seamlessly as possible to a glissando just above the register break. Some players play the scale portion as written, but some attempt to make it sound more glissando-like by turning it into a chromatic scale. Sometimes they also start the scale on chalumeau F-sharp rather than the written G.

    How the clarinet glissando is done, taste-wise

    Mastering the technique of the glissando, like mastering any technique, is only the first step. The next and perhaps more important step is to learn to do it with good musical taste.

    When performing a glissando, carefully consider the shape of the pitch bend. How long is the bend overall? Should the pitch move in a straight line from one pitch to another? (Unlikely.) Should it have more of a curve, staying low at first and then rising at an increasing rate? Should there be a moment at the beginning or end at which the pitch remains stable, or is it constantly in motion?

    These are fine distinctions, but important to the character of the glissando. Careful, detailed listening is crucial to the process—be sure to check out as many good recordings as you can, and note the differences in approach. If your intention is for the glissando to sound jazz-like, make sure you are listening to jazz players who use that effect, not just classical players who may or may not have done their homework.

    Why it’s a clarinet-specific effect

    The clarinet, unlike any of the other major modern wind instruments, uses a very high voicing for general playing. This leaves room to lower the voicing considerably for this special glissando effect. Flutes and double reeds (and brass instruments) use a very low voicing, which theoretically can be raised, but a raised voicing on a low-voicing instrument doesn’t cover as much territory pitch-wise; in other words, it’s harder to raise the pitch with voicing than it is to lower it. The saxophones, with an in-between voicing, have some flexibility here, but also have to contend with large keys on large toneholes, which are not as precise for hole-uncovering as fingertips on small clarinet toneholes. (The keys situation also explains why the larger clarinets aren’t nearly as agile with glissandos, even though those instruments are properly played with a high voicing.) In short, the technique lends itself particularly to the high clarinets, and may be much more difficult on other woodwinds.

    Practice smart!

  • A toolkit for simple woodwind repairs

    I think it’s really valuable to be able to do a few small repairs on woodwind instruments. As a doubler, I’ve found it to be a financial necessity—I can’t afford to run to the repair shop every time some little thing needs tweaking on one of my instruments—and it’s a great way to get to know your instruments better. (I do still make sure my instruments visit a real professional on a regular basis.)

    There are some inexpensive and easily-obtained tools that are useful to have around. Most of these things you can easily buy locally; only a few require buying from a musical instrument repair supplier (MusicMedic.com and Ferree’s Tools are a couple of good suppliers that happily sell to non-pros). These are tools and supplies suitable for small repairs and maintenance, the kinds of things that you can do mostly with common sense or with instructional materials available online. The most expensive item on my list is a “selection” of sheet cork, which I have pegged at about $20 to get smallish pieces in a few different thicknesses. You can get my entire list for less than the cost of a decent clarinet mouthpiece.

    Continue to the interactive shopping list

  • |

    Not good

    I like to use a Socratic-ish method in my private lessons, and ask my students questions. It means that I have this conversation several times per day:

    [Student plays.]

    Me: How did that sound to you?

    Student: Not good.

    Me: What didn’t you like about it?

    Student: It didn’t sound good.

    Me: What aspect of it didn’t sound good to you? The tone? the pitch? the phrasing? the articulation?

    Student: Um, I guess the articulation?

    Me: What didn’t you like about the articulation?

    Student: It wasn’t good?

    It’s an ongoing battle to get my students to listen more deeply than that. Was the articulation “not good” because it started with air noise instead of tone? Because it was accompanied by an unwanted percussive sound? Was the articulation technique perfect but you failed to follow the composer’s markings? Or was it something else?

    Photo, David Bailey
    Photo, David Bailey

    Often the “not good” is a combination of factors, but if my students can identify even one of them, then they can immediately start working in a focused way to improve it. If it’s just “not good,” then they tend to just play it again from the beginning without any clear approach to making it sound better, and repeat until frustrated.

    Part of my job is to help them identify and verbalize the desirable and undesirable phenomena in their playing, and to teach them the techniques for manipulating the variables involved (breath support, voicing, embouchure, finger technique, and tongue technique, to name the most obvious ones). But it’s up to them to take that information and run with it. For my students to become independently-functional musicians, they need to learn to listen critically to themselves and troubleshoot.

    For yourself and for your students, don’t be satisfied with bland value judgments (it sounded “good” or “bad”). Be factual and descriptive about what you hear, and tackle problems in a methodical way. Practice smart!

  • What’s in a name? What “doublers” call themselves

    I’ve struggled a little with what to call myself as a player of several woodwind instruments. “Woodwind doubler” seems like the most accepted nomenclature, but “doubler” seems a little inapt for someone who plays more than two instruments (my flute teacher calls me a “five-aler”). Read More “What’s in a name? What “doublers” call themselves”

  • Accents and the tongue (or not)

    As a follow-up to my previous post on the role of the tongue in articulation, I would like to address the problem of accents.

    When I hear my students playing heavy, thumpy accents, I ask them how they are playing the accents. The answer is usually the same: “tongue harder?”

    But when the tongue is properly understood to release the reed (or release the airstream on the flute), the idea of tonguing harder doesn’t make much sense. (How do you release harder?) Unfortunately, for many developing woodwind players, it translates to a larger area of contact between the tongue and the reed, causing unwanted percussive sounds.

    accent

    Accents are better understood as what they appear to be on the page: small decrescendos. An accent is a note shape: louder at the beginning, softer at the end. It is produced by the mechanisms of volume/dynamics, not the tongue. Often, but not always, the note starts louder than the baseline dynamic level and decrescendos back to it.

    As with most aspects of musical interpretation, this leaves a great deal of room for variation; accents can have many characters and shades. But none of those should include thuds or thumps (unless, I suppose, called for by the composer). Practice beautiful and stylish accents by slowing down the music enough to give each accented note a graceful decrescendo.

6 Comments

  1. Hi Bret,

    I’m a retired NYC teacher and amateur jazz musician, studying with a New York pro who just told me to get Jean Jean’s “Vade Mecum.” I stumbled onto your great website and your piece. “Take Your Instrument Apart.” I’m scared to try that on my Buffet clarinet. However, the NYC school down the street threw out 2 Bundy saxes – 1 tenor and one bary- that I’d like to get in shape, the bary especially. Local sax technicians want $$$$ to overhaul it and I’ve been thinking of just buying a new one. Would it be worth tackling the bary as a starter project? I’ve got a workbench for the job.

    I’m eager to hear your opinion!

    Thanks,

    Brad Baker
    bakermusic2@yahoo.com

  2. Hi Brad,

    A discarded saxophone would be a great first instrument to take apart, clean and lube, and reassemble!

    However, if it’s in rough enough shape that a school actually threw it away, it likely needs more than just cleaning and oil. A professional overhaul would probably include all new pads, corks, felts, and a number of other repairs and adjustments.

    So, it may be worth it to you to get a little hands-on experience with this horn, but it may still need some professional attention before it plays well (or at all!).

    Good luck!

  3. Hi Bret !

    Following your wise advice I just took the upper joint of my clarinet apart.

    I used some white spirit for the extra grease. I think I could use some kind of silver special cleaner to make it shiny but I’ve got no time to go to the store as I need my clarinet for this evening…

    I guess that next time I’ll have all the tools ready before I start taking it apart.

    I’ll also have to buy new Q-tips. I just left two to clean my ears for this evening’s rehearsal ;)

    All the Best,

    Pierre

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