Review: Akai EWI4000s wind controller

I recently got my hands on one of these:
Akai EWI 4000s wind controller

Believe me when I tell you that this is a seriously cool instrument.

Even after hearing and reading a number of rave reviews of the Akai EWI 4000S, I was pleasantly surprised by its playability, responsiveness, and capacity for expression. In my opinion, this is a real instrument, and a viable option for serious music-making.

A few highlights:

  • It has a nice heft to it, and feels in my hands like professional-grade gear.
  • The breath sensitivity is easily adjustable, and it only took me a moment to get it set up to really suit my preferences.
  • It is packed full of all kinds of sensors: the breath sensor (of course) which even responds well to flutter-tonguing and growling, a bite sensor, and various sensors for the thumbs that can control things like portamento and pitch bend. These are all programmable to some extent, so if you’re clever you can remap them to control different things.
  • It has an on-board synthesizer, unlike its primary rival, the Yamaha WX5. That means you don’t have to plug it into a sound module (although you can if you like). It also means it’s relatively cheap: the Yamaha currently has a street price of about $750 and requires an $800 sound module. The Akai goes for about $700, and doesn’t need a sound module.
  • The on-board synthesizer is actually a synthesizer, not just a collection of canned sounds. That means you can create your own sounds (using a computer and the free Akai software), or buy professionally-developed sound banks. It does come with a selection of pre-programmed sounds, so you can just play it right out of the box if you prefer.
  • It has an 8-octave range, which is sort of mindblowing to me as a woodwind player.
  • The proprietary EWI fingering system is quite intuitive for a woodwind player, very saxophone-like. But the fingerings are very flexible, with lots of possibilities for alternate or trill fingerings. (There is a very basic fingering chart in the user’s manual, downloadable from Akai, but it does not tell the whole story.Ā Stay tuned for a future article taking a closer look at EWI fingerings.) The EWI also has additional fingering modes, including “saxophone,” “flute,” “oboe,” and an apparently trumpet-valve-like system, which might ease the transition from another instrument but lack the power of the EWI fingering system.
  • It has a nice set of on-board effects and other tricks: reverb, delay, chorus, portamento, the ability to play in octaves or another interval of your choice, and the ability to sustain a note while you play a phrase.
  • It can be powered by an AC adapter (not included), but seems to run for a good long time on 4 AA batteries.
  • It has a 1/8″ headphone jack, a 1/4″ line out jack, and MIDI in and out jacks.

In short, I am very satisfied with my new toy. There are a few things to be aware of, however, if you’re thinking of getting into wind controllers:

  • There isn’t any kind of speaker built in, so it doesn’t make any noise unless you plug in some headphones or an amplifier. For casual playing at home, I’ve also had success plugging a nice pair of computer speakers and subwoofer into the headphone jack.
  • The most difficult part of the fingering system is the left-thumb octave rollers. These make the huge pitch range possible, but take some getting used to.
  • The included sounds are quite playable, but the custom sound bank from Patchman Music really takes the EWI to another level. You haven’t experienced the true potential of the EWI4000S unless you’ve used the Patchman sounds. (From what I understand, the same is true of the Yamaha wind controller.)
  • Also on the subject of sounds: the best application of the EWI4000S’s synthesizer is synthy sounds. If you want to convincingly imitate acoustic instruments, you will need to plug the EWI into some kind of sound module. This wasn’t a negative for me, but it’s worth knowing ahead of time.

Here’s a small taste of what the Akai EWI4000S sounds like, using one of the Patchman sounds. I didn’t add anything to the recording after the fact—all the effects, etc. are coming from the 4000S itself.

Similar Posts

  • Review: D’Addario Select Jazz tenor saxophone mouthpieces

    I’ve already done thorough reviews of the D’Addario clarinet mouthpieces (twice) and alto saxophone jazz mouthpieces, both of which immediately replaced the competing Vandoren products I was previously using. So, naturally I’ve been very anxious for the release of the hard rubber tenor saxophone jazz mouthpiece, and I got my hands on some samples earlier this week. (Full disclosure: D’Addario sent me the mouthpieces for free, but with no strings attached. This is my best attempt to give an unbiased review.)

    I’m pleased to report that everything I like about the clarinet and alto mouthpieces is true of the tenor mouthpieces as well: these are well-made, utterly consistent, easy-to-play, affordable, versatile mouthpieces. Like the clarinet and alto pieces, the Select Jazz tenor mouthpiece is going to be my new mouthpiece for the foreseeable future.

    I like to be as low-fuss as possible about my gear. This is a sub-$200 mouthpiece, fully machine-made to fine tolerances, by a major woodwind accessory company. That means if I break or lose mine, I can quickly and easily get another that plays virtually identically from just about any online or brick-and-mortar music store. (Soon; the tenor mouthpieces don’t seem to be in many stores yet.) Check out my previous reviews for more in-depth discussion about that—in short, the days of having to order a half-dozen and pick the best one are gone.

    The Select Jazz tenor mouthpiece is currently available in a medium chamber and medium facing, with tip openings from 6 (2.54mm/.100ā€) to 9 (2.92mm/.115ā€). I’ve been wanting to move to a little smaller tip opening, and the 6 is just what I was looking for.

    The tip openings differ in the ways you would expect. The 6 likes a medium- or medium-soft strength reed, and the 9 needs a medium-soft or soft. The smaller openings are very slightly mellower in tone, softer in volume, and oriented toward stability rather than flexibility, while the larger ones are brighter, louder, and more flexible/less stable, but the differences really are pretty minor. The 6 is my favorite, but I could use the 9 on a gig in a pinch. Choosing your tip opening will probably be more a matter of comfort zone than a question of differences in sound or application.

    My previous mouthpiece was a slightly older model Vandoren V16 metal mouthpiece, the T75 (2.67mm/.105″, I think). It served me well for quite a few years, but recently I’ve been less satisfied with its difficult low notes and overall edginess. (After having it for a few years the gold plating started to get some discolored spots, and ultimately got some pitting on the table, so it may not be playing as well as it once did.) Playing hard rubber for jazz on tenor is actually new for me—I’ve played a string of metal mouthpieces since high school—but the transition to the Select Jazz has been seamless. Eyes closed, I don’t think I could tell the difference material-wise.

    For tenor in particular I want a mouthpiece that can do lots of things—a sweeter, mellower sound for small-group cocktail gigs, a punchier, gutsier sound for amplified rock and blues, precise articulation and rock-steady intonation for studio playing. The Select Jazz has a nice middle-of-the-road quality that moves easily between straight-ahead jazz and funkier sounds. I find that at a scream I don’t get quite as much bite in the tone as I do with the V16, but I was pleasantly surprised at the amount of bottom end in the sound at maximum volume. In other words, the V16 gets bright and aggressive when I push it, but the Select Jazz just gets big and powerful. I’m liking the tradeoff.

    The Select Jazz also wins hands down for ease of playing (against the V16, which I originally selected for its ease of playing). I could just about play a classical recital on the #6 if I had to—the articulation and response are easy from low B-flat up into the altissimo. Like the V16, it strikes a nice balance between stability and flexibility. It’s easy to play in tune, but there’s also plenty of room to bend the pitch around when I want to.

    I’m not going to do a thorough play-test comparison this time, because I don’t think it’s really necessary. My V16 is an old model, in poor shape, and metal, so the comparison isn’t really fair and they are perhaps somewhat different animals anyway. But here’s a quick demo of the 6, moving through a few different styles. (It was supposed to be one uninterrupted take, but I ended up having to re-record the last segment standing a little farther from the mic.) First a snippet of Body and Soul, then a few bars of a Brecker tune that I can never remember the name of, then Night Train, then the horn break from Sir Duke.

    I don’t see myself as a guy who gets snobby about brands, but D’Addario’s pro-line mouthpieces have hit the mark for me 100% so far. Looking forward to what’s next.

  • Play reeds that fit

    Photo, °Florian

    During a rare visit to a music store this week, I overheard a very young clarinetist asking a salesperson to help him locate some unusually stiff reeds. The salesperson was as surprised as was I that the young man was interested in such an extreme equipment choice—but apparently for different reasons.

    “You must be very talented to have moved up to such stiff reeds already,” the salesperson told the beaming prodigy. “How impressive!”

    To me, this is a little like congratulating someone on moving up to a larger hat size. “Oh, it’s nothing, really. I started out in a 7¼, but I worked really hard and now I’m ready for the 7½. But the real greats all wear at least an 8, so that’s where I want to end up.” Bigger isn’t better—you should wear whatever fits your head.

    A clarinet or saxophone reed should be an appropriate fit to the mouthpiece. There are a number of factors that determine what strength of reed is right for a mouthpiece, but, in general terms, most mouthpieces with wider tip openings require softer reeds to get good response, and most mouthpieces with narrower openings need a stiffer reed for stability and dynamic range.

    While each player is of course different, I think sometimes the factor of the individual embouchure is actually over-emphasized. The embouchure doesn’t and shouldn’t need unusual muscular strength to do its job—it requires delicacy and control. If you’re biting and straining against a too-stiff reed, you’re sacrificing both, and both you and your audience are suffering for it. For most mouthpieces, there is a narrow range of reed strengths that is about right, no matter how “strong” you are (or think you are).

    There’s no such thing as “moving up” to a stiffer reed, just “moving” to a different strength to suit a new mouthpiece or to correct an error in your previous reed choice.

  • |

    Need a panflute? Woodwind doubling gear woes

    Toothpaste For Dinner

    A handy “panflute flowchart” from toothpastefordinner.com. Read More “Need a panflute? Woodwind doubling gear woes”

  • Buying a new instrument

    I went saxophone shopping with a student yesterday. We picked out a nice instrument that suits his playing style and personal tastes, meets my requirements, and ought to serve him well for years to come. Here are a few thoughts on picking out a new horn.

    • Do your research ahead of time. We made phone calls to several music stores in the region, and found out what instruments were available to try. We both familiarized ourselves with the various bells and whistles (so to speak) of the different models, and had some idea of the differences between the instruments the stores had in stock. This became important as we were evaluating a saxophone that seemed to be almost the right fit for the student—luckily we knew that model came from the factory with two different necks. We asked for the other neck, and sure enough, the horn turned out to be a winner.
    • Bring a trusted set of ears. If you are a student, try begging or bribing your teacher to go shopping with you (they want you to have the best instrument you can afford!). Remember that what you hear when you play the horn is different from what a listener hears. When I picked out an oboe a few years ago, I found two specimens of the same model that seemed equally good to me. My oboe teacher listened to me play both, and immediately picked out “the one.” He could hear something out front that was escaping me back behind the reed.
    • Put the instrument through its paces. How does it respond, feel, sound, and tune at fortissimo? At pianissimo? High notes? Low notes? Articulated notes? Check the pitch, stability, response, and tone of every single note, including alternate fingerings. Use your own familiar mouthpiece(s) and reeds. Spend a significant amount of time playing a new horn before you even think about buying it. My student and I each played some of our current classical repertoire and some jazz stuff before making a judgment on the instruments.
    • Prioritize realistically. Remember that your tone will be a little different on an unfamiliar instrument, but that your individual sound will come through more as you gain comfort with the instrument. Intonation, however, is built into the horn for good. Get an instrument that will let you play in tune without unnecessary gymnastics.
    • Don’t forget the old reliable. Bring your old instrument along for periodic reality checks, even if you know it has significant shortcomings. I was impressed enough with one of the instruments I tried yesterday that I briefly considered what would have been a rash and probably unwise purchase. I put the mouthpiece back on my own alto and realized that I am better off with what I’ve got.

    Happy shopping!

  • Review: Rico reed cases

    I’ve been trying out the Rico single and double reed cases. These are plastic cases that can optionally accommodate Rico’s “Reed Vitalizer” packets, which, according to Rico, help keep your reeds at your desired humidity level. The single reed case holds eight reeds, baritone saxophone or smaller, and the double reed case holds five double reeds, oboe or bassoon. (I found contrabass clarinet reeds to be just a little too large for the single reed case. The double reed case holds English horn reeds just fine, but doesn’t work for oboe d’amore or contrabassoon.)

    Detailed review follows, but here is the quick summary:

    Price reasonable initial investment; pricier if you regularly buy additional Vitalizer packs
    Looks handsome
    Humidity undecided
    Design flawed

    Price

    Current street price on both the single reed case and the double reed case Ā seems to be about $20. This includes one Reed Vitalizer pack. If you choose to use the Reed Vitalizer packs on an ongoing basis, they go for about $5 apiece, and Rico says you will need a new one every 45-60 days (so, up to around $40/year, not counting tax or shipping). Read More “Review: Rico reed cases”

  • On purple violins

    Photo, Glamhag

    I’m a little late commenting on this, but I still think it’s an issue worth addressing. Last month there was a minor scandal over an incident in a Farmington, New Mexico school orchestra program, where a beginning violinist was informed that she would not be allowed to use her own, um, unique instrument.Ā Most of the reporting on the story took a similar tone to that employed byĀ the Los Angeles Times:

    The gift violin was a surprise from her grandmother. The color was purple, the girl’s favorite.

    Lopez encouraged her daughter to stand up for what she believed in. “I told her, ‘Camille, you’re not like everyone else. We’re all different.'”

    “She’s done with the orchestra class,” Lopez said. “She switched out. She no longer plays.”

    Lopez said she’ll never know whether the decision ended the career of a budding Yo-Yo Ma. “I’d pay for private lessons if I could afford them,ā€ Lopez said. ā€œBut it doesn’t matter now, I guess. Camille is taking choir now.”

    The Times story sets up the uninformed reader for outrage: an underprivileged but spunky girl, a gift from a grandmother, stifled individuality, personal “beliefs” under attack, abandoned dreams, and a stodgy, stuffy establishment.

    But a more careful reading of the Times story reveals some details that won’t escape the attention of music educators.

    Read More “On purple violins”

20 Comments

  1. Nice review. It is indeed a very cool instrument.

    I have one, and my bandmates have remarked “that is an awesome tool!”, which is how I view it. By using it with Propellerheads Reason, I’ve been able to ‘double’ on violin, slide guitar, and all manner of synth bass and leads for the more electronic, pop tunes we do. I’ve even played flutey solos with it. (I’ve got sounds and a blog about my experiences at http://www.ewireasonsounds.com).

    One reason I got it is because I found myself laying out more and more because the music our band was playing didn’t have any horn parts. Now I can be a auxiliary keyboard player. I can honestly say it has increased my value as a woodwind player and made me more marketable.

    Will there come a day when doubling on EWI is expected, kind of like doubling on flute and clarinet?

  2. @EWIChris – Until fairly recently I played saxophone and flute in a band that was similarly synth-heavy. It has crossed my mind more than a few times since I got my EWI how much I would have used it in that group. Oh well.

    EWI seems like such an individualized thing—what with all the options for sounds, effects, etc.—that in most typical doubling situations it would take a fairly EWI-savvy orchestrator/musical director to use it effectively, beyond just using it to cover acoustic instrument lines (what a waste!). I think most would have to work directly with the performer to compose for the available sounds (or create new ones).

  3. I have been playing EWI for 5 years and finally jumped up to the 4000…what an instrument! I am currently in an original fusion-jam band and this thing just blends so well when harmonizing with the guitar.

  4. I just purchased an EWI4000s.I tryed out some software synths and I well hated them.2 reasons 1: setting up sounds.I didn’t really have any time left for practicing.2:playing those sounds sound different when played through the ewi as opposed to fixing them with a keyboard. I do however have what I believe to be the best solution.Just plug your ewi into your trusty moog using it’s handy midi out, turn the amp on adjust the volume so the neighbors can’t hear (or the windows don’t rattle)and start playing.

  5. hi i just got my ewi 4000s as a trumpet player I want to try this new thing , I saw that web site w/ free sound altougth
    how can i convert or transfer those sound to my ewi since file ext are different from akai software..
    thanks for ure help
    juan

    1. There won’t be any simple way to “convert” the sounds, since the EWI uses an onboard virtual synthesizer, rather than a bank of sampled sounds. If you have a MIDI interface and computer software that can play the sounds, it may be possible to use them that way. Good luck!

  6. I’m a horn player and do a lot of work. Like a previous post, I want to get a controller to double more and not sit out while the band continues to play. After looking at the video of it in action – doesn’t it drive you crazy with not being able to touch the keys without activating them? I kind of like the Yamaha version just for the ability to hold the thing like a real instrument.

    Thoughts on this vs using the Yamaha synth? Thanks!

    1. I have little experience with the Yamaha, so I can’t compare them fairly.

      I don’t find the keys on the Akai to be a problem at all. To me it feels very similar to playing a recorder or pennywhistle—no moving keys, just contact points.

  7. You haven’t really had any idea of how good the EWI is until you use the sounds from samplemodeling.com, for Trumpet, French Horn, Tuba, Clarinet, and the new Saxophones. The quality of the sounds, the responsiveness is light years ahead of anything for those who want realistic sounds.

    Let me know what you think.

    1. There are a number of companies doing impressive things with sounds imitative of “real” instruments. Personally, I’m more interested in the “synthy” sounds for EWI; if I’m going for a great saxophone sound, I’d rather work on my saxophone chops instead of playing an electronic version that sounds almost like the real thing.

  8. I’ve been playing on a Yamaha wx11 for about 15 yrs. run through a vl 70 with a Patchman chip upgrade. My primary instrument being the flute. About 5 yrs. ago I bought a wx5 and was very disappointed in the lack of response in the pitch reed sensor. For my own sound, I use a personalized jaw technique.
    This is the one feature I find crucial to giving organic life to an acoustic patch, through sensitive and expressive vibrato. I’m not really sure why Yamaha did this. If it works don’t fix it !
    I was wondering how the Akai 4000 compares with the older WX’s with this feature ?

  9. Can anyone help me. I just received my AKAI Professional EWI4000s lastnight. I put on the batteries to test it. Unfortunately no sound is coming out to the headphones i’ve plugged. I tried to plug into an amplifier but still no sound is coming out. I’ve checked the power and volume and they are fine. Can anyone please help me.

    thanks so much!

  10. I just purchased the EWI 4000 and am having the same problem with no sound like the last inquiry. I also checked volume, power etc. Tried several chords, wondering if that was the problem, went with midi into VL 70m sound module, still no sound.
    I also would be most appreciative with some help.

    Thank You

    1. Just got my EWI 4000s a few days ago. I couldn’t get any sound either until I went through the steps to adjust the Breath sensor. If you haven’t tried that, see the manual for instructions.

      1. Thanks for the tip, that worked ! Now for the fine tuning and learning curve. The up and down octave setup however is similar in concept to my trusty old wx 11

  11. I’ve played an Akai ewi USB before, are the octave rollers the same as the 4000s? 4 metal rollers but only the two in the middle move, and it takes a long time to get used to. Or are there some design differences there, because they’re all together different animals with my guess being their touch pads as their only similarity. Thanks in advance.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Comments that take a negative or confrontational tone are subject to email and name verification before being approved. In other words: no anonymous trolls allowed—take responsibility for your words.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.