I frequently see this kind of question asked on online message boards:
I have a Nabisco clarinet with a Palmolive C43 mouthpiece and Marlboro 3¾ reeds. I am 30 cents flat all the time. What piece of equipment should I buy to solve this problem?
The answers are always varied (harder reeds, softer reeds, someone else’s favorite brand of reeds, an expensive mouthpiece, an abnormally short barrel, a specific model of clarinet) and generally completely off base.
On further prodding, the clarinetist with the flatness problem invariably turns out to be self-“taught,” sometimes with some degree of prior achievement on another wind instrument. This is a huge red flag that we are dealing with operator error.
The correct solution to this problem is to take at least a few lessons with an excellent clarinet teacher. A good teacher faced with this problem will review the fundamentals of tone production with you: breath support, voicing, and embouchure formation. With some dedicated practice, you will almost certainly see your pitch improve (as well as your tone, response, and more).
On the rare occasion that I do see this course of action advised, the poor flat clarinetist often has a number of excuses at the ready:
“I don’t have money for lessons.” (You should be able to get at least one and probably several lessons for what you would have spent on that new mouthpiece or barrel.)
“There aren’t any teachers near me.” (Have you really checked? The world, sadly, is full of very talented musicians who are underemployed and very much available for lessons. Check in with your nearest university music department, consult a school band director, or even try “Skype” or other online live-video lessons if you must, which are being offered more and more frequently by qualified teachers.)
“I already play a different instrument really well, so I’m pretty sure I can figure the clarinet out by myself.” (Learning a new instrument requires much more than a fingering chart and brash confidence. In particular, the clarinet’s voicing technique is unique among the major, modern wind instruments, and doing it wrong will result in—you guessed it—significantly flat pitch.)
Message boards and other text-based communication methods (even books) have their uses, but they aren’t a viable substitute for having a real, experienced clarinet teacher diagnose the problem and make some suggestions. Even if it does turn out that an equipment purchase is in order, do it under a teacher’s guidance—the money you spend on lessons is an investment in avoiding mistakes that are much more expensive.
Changing your instrument, mouthpiece, headjoint, reeds, etc. on a frequent basis isn’t productive, but sticking with the same equipment forever isn’t a virtue either. Here are some questions to ask yourself (or a trusted teacher or colleague) when you start feeling the itch to spend money on shiny new things:
Does this new equipment make it easier or more comfortable to do what I do? Or am I hoping it will magically endow me with abilities I didn’t have before?
Does this materially improve some concrete aspect of my playing, like intonation, response, dynamic range or finger movement? Is it an improvement that is more subjective, fleeting, or malleable, like tone quality? (Tone quality isn’t nothing when purchasing woodwind gear, but it’s not everything, either.)
Does this really change how I sound? Does it change how it feels to play, physically? Does it change how it feels to play, emotionally? (All of these can be valid reasons to change, but it’s worth sorting out what’s really changing.)
Is this new equipment appealing in some way that is more about appearance or cachet than playability? Is that worth the investment to me? Would I be sacrificing some playability for bling factor?
How did I come to desire this particular item? Was I influenced by advertising, celebrity endorsements, a commissioned salesperson, an internet stranger, or someone/something else that might have motivations separate from my success? Was I happy with my current setup before I learned of this product’s existence?
There are few more coveted clarinet techniques than the smooth glissando, as heard in the famous opening to Rhapsody in Blue. But the technique isn’t intuitive, and lots of questions persist about how to do it.
(Incidentally: the Rhapsody in Blue score doesn’t call for a smooth portamento-type effect, but a scale with discrete notes. But the portamento became tradition early in the piece’s life and is now more or less required.)
How the clarinet glissando is done, technique-wise
One key thing to understand is that finger movement is the smallest part of the clarinet glissando. It’s not possible (or at least I’ve never seen it done) to achieve the full effect by simply uncovering toneholes gradually. The real work here is done with voicing.
Let’s break the technique down. We’ll use Rhapsody in Blue as an example, but the principles can be applied to other repertoire (or improvisations).
First, let’s look at what’s called for in the score:
Glissandos that cross register breaks are a particular challenge, so most clarinetists avoid that, opting to play a scale in the lower register, and beginning the glissando at the lower-clarion B or C.
High C is the destination note. Start by playing that note and using your voicing (think of blowing warmer air) to bend the pitch downward. Resist the urge to “lip” it down with your embouchure muscles or to let your breath support sag.
Bend it down absolutely as far as you can, until the note quits. It can take some practice to get a wide pitch bend range. Don’t strain; play around with it for a few minutes, then try again tomorrow.
Once you’re able to bend it fairly far, try kicking in some extra breath support. The air column is reluctant to vibrate when it’s bent too far (I’m fudging a little here on the acoustics). Use powerful air, even more powerful than usual, to make it keep vibrating, and see if you can bend even farther.
Now go to the lower part of the glissando, B or C in the staff. Try to bend it. You probably can’t bend this long-tube note, with lots of closed toneholes, nearly as much as you could bend the short-tube high C.
Now play the note, and gradually let your fingers lift, just a little bit, off the toneholes.
Notice that with the toneholes just slightly vented, the note becomes much less stable—or more bendable. Play around with the pitch to get the feel of it.
Now play the lowest note of the glissando (I’m using C here for simplicity). Move the fingers a little off their toneholes (all of them, except the left thumb, which stays in position for high C) while simultaneously bending the pitch down hard with voicing. (Remember to keep breath support strong.) While gradually moving the fingers farther off the toneholes, bend gradually upward with voicing. As the fingers finally completely clear the toneholes, the voicing arrives at its standard high position, and the pitch settles in on high C.
It takes practice to get the fingers and voicing coordinated, and to gain enough control to shape the bend just how you want it.
To execute the Rhapsody in Blue opening, play a scale in the lower register, then switch as seamlessly as possible to a glissando just above the register break. Some players play the scale portion as written, but some attempt to make it sound more glissando-like by turning it into a chromatic scale. Sometimes they also start the scale on chalumeau F-sharp rather than the written G.
How the clarinet glissando is done, taste-wise
Mastering the technique of the glissando, like mastering any technique, is only the first step. The next and perhaps more important step is to learn to do it with good musical taste.
When performing a glissando, carefully consider the shape of the pitch bend. How long is the bend overall? Should the pitch move in a straight line from one pitch to another? (Unlikely.) Should it have more of a curve, staying low at first and then rising at an increasing rate? Should there be a moment at the beginning or end at which the pitch remains stable, or is it constantly in motion?
These are fine distinctions, but important to the character of the glissando. Careful, detailed listening is crucial to the process—be sure to check out as many good recordings as you can, and note the differences in approach. If your intention is for the glissando to sound jazz-like, make sure you are listening to jazz players who use that effect, not just classical players who may or may not have done their homework.
Why it’s a clarinet-specific effect
The clarinet, unlike any of the other major modern wind instruments, uses a very high voicing for general playing. This leaves room to lower the voicing considerably for this special glissando effect. Flutes and double reeds (and brass instruments) use a very low voicing, which theoretically can be raised, but a raised voicing on a low-voicing instrument doesn’t cover as much territory pitch-wise; in other words, it’s harder to raise the pitch with voicing than it is to lower it. The saxophones, with an in-between voicing, have some flexibility here, but also have to contend with large keys on large toneholes, which are not as precise for hole-uncovering as fingertips on small clarinet toneholes. (The keys situation also explains why the larger clarinets aren’t nearly as agile with glissandos, even though those instruments are properly played with a high voicing.) In short, the technique lends itself particularly to the high clarinets, and may be much more difficult on other woodwinds.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, at no cost to you.
Be sure to check out my recent interview with Trent Jacobs, the inventor of the Little-Jake bassoon/woodwind pickup.
During the past year I got myself a Little-Jake to experiment with some electrified bassoon playing. I didn’t know much about using electronics in this way, and it took some research and trial-and-error to figure out exactly what I needed to use the Little-Jake with my bassoon. I thought others might find it useful to see that information all in one place. Here’s a kind of minimum setup:
A bocal that you’re willing to have altered. I had an old one that I liked but wasn’t using much.
The bocal needs a small hole drilled in it and an adapter soldered to it. A skilled instrument technician can probably make you an adapter from scratch, or you can buy one pre-made. Forrests Music has one, and so does Midwest Musical Imports. I bought Forrests’s (cheaper) version, plus the threaded plug in case I want to use the bocal without the Little-Jake. I shipped my bocal to Forrests and they installed the adapter for a very reasonable fee.
Brass adapter visible just above whisper key pip
Adapter with plug
The Little-Jake pickup. It’s a thin cable with a 1/4″ plug on one end, and a little threaded connector on the other. The threaded end connects to the adapter on your bocal.
A preamp. The 1/4″ end of the Little-Jake connects to the preamp’s input jack. The preamp works some electrical magic to get the electronic “signal” ready for amplification. You can buy an inexpensive one made from an Altoids tin, or this L. R. Baggs one that Trent recommends, or there are other options if you know what you’re doing. The L. R. Baggs is handy because it clips to your belt and provides a volume control.
An audio cable, like the ones used for electric guitars. One end plugs into your preamp’s output jack.
An amplifier. The other end of the audio cable plugs into an input jack on the amplifier. There are many options at many price points. I use a small Mackie PA system for practicing or small venues, or a keyboard amplifier if I need more volume. Keyboard amps and PA systems are usually designed for a relatively “clean,” unaltered sound, whereas guitar amps tend to add their own character. This is a personal choice depending on what you want to sound like, but for me the keyboard/PA-type amp seemed to make sense as a starting point.
Assembled system: bocal → Little-Jake → preamp → audio cable → amplifier (in this case, a small PA system)
That’s enough to start making some fun sounds, but refer to Trent’s interview and an article on his website for some thoughts on adding effects pedals, which really make things interesting.
My current pedalboard setup
The Little-Jake can be used for some other instruments, as well, with the same setup (except the adapter must be attached to a saxophone or bass clarinet neck, clarinet barrel, etc.).
As usual Bret, I agree with ya 100%. But just for grins, here’s a story I encountered first-hand. A few years ago, after moving from the steamy jungles of central Virginia to the frigid tundra of Nova Scotia I found I started having trouble with a flat horn during the winter months. At first I thought I was going nuts, but just arriving to a gig in 20 below weather and trying to warm the thing up was really a challenge. (Even though I’m of course not playing outside.) So I got a barrel that was a millimeter or two shorter and: Problem Solved. Now I use my “Winter Barrel” during cold-month gigs when there is little opportunity to properly tune.
Agreed, a slightly shorter or longer barrel can be useful for tuning. I keep a 66mm and a 65mm ready at hand. But sometimes I’m seeing people on the dreaded message boards advocating barrels well outside of normal parameters, which I am certain are being used as a poor substitute for proper clarinet-playing technique, and that’s what I am hoping to talk people out of here.
You’re so right. I hope my story that it took actual arctic temperatures of -20° in Canada to necessitate a 1mm shorter barrel will give pause to those who seek equipment fixes as their first resort!
That comment is really dead on. I have known of people who go through any range of equipment issues trying to make up for bad playing technique. I have heard of players using a barrel that is 4 mm short to compensate.
I think one key thing that your site addresses very well is to aim to approach each instrument as a completely different entity. To use a huge tip opening on clarinet to make it feel more like a sax (or vise versa) generally causes a whole range of issues. Even within members of the same family the playing characteristics are very different. But I am not saying anything you don’t know!
Great article and spot on! Getting the fundamentals of proper embouchure and tongue position are something you must get from a good teacher.
Here is another issue that I have encountered that May tie into this one: I think that sometimes a player truly thinks they are playing in tune even though they are chronically flat. Perhaps they have a skewed perception of what ‘in tune’ should sound like? I have played beside more than one players (amateur and professional) who say they know they are sharp (even though they are actually quite flat). I usually pull out on my horn as much as I can without totally compromising my integrity with the rest of the ensemble. Then…sure enough… said stand partner, upon detecting a change in my center of pitch proceeds to pull out on their horn to make themselves even flatter:-/ Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon?
A few years ago a guy called me for private lessons. He was an an adult, probably in his early 30’s. We went over the usual routine typical of a first lesson- assembly, embouchure, notation, etc and played a few notes, working off of the first couple of pages from a lesson book. About a week later he called to tell me that he could probably figure out the rest by himself.
By any chance Bret, are you a clarinet teacher? I think what’s important is the sound that comes out of the horn. It may not be in the correct way but if it produces good intonation and sound it doesn’t matter how you get there. Your advice is excellent for young students but as you’ve probably guessed I’m a saxophone player that took up clarinet as a second instrument years ago. I’m too old and stubborn to change my ways. I found this blog because I do find myself playing flat occasionally. The comment about dealing with colder weather makes sense to me and I’ll probably get a slight shorter barrel for those situations.
As usual Bret, I agree with ya 100%. But just for grins, here’s a story I encountered first-hand. A few years ago, after moving from the steamy jungles of central Virginia to the frigid tundra of Nova Scotia I found I started having trouble with a flat horn during the winter months. At first I thought I was going nuts, but just arriving to a gig in 20 below weather and trying to warm the thing up was really a challenge. (Even though I’m of course not playing outside.) So I got a barrel that was a millimeter or two shorter and: Problem Solved. Now I use my “Winter Barrel” during cold-month gigs when there is little opportunity to properly tune.
Agreed, a slightly shorter or longer barrel can be useful for tuning. I keep a 66mm and a 65mm ready at hand. But sometimes I’m seeing people on the dreaded message boards advocating barrels well outside of normal parameters, which I am certain are being used as a poor substitute for proper clarinet-playing technique, and that’s what I am hoping to talk people out of here.
You’re so right. I hope my story that it took actual arctic temperatures of -20° in Canada to necessitate a 1mm shorter barrel will give pause to those who seek equipment fixes as their first resort!
That comment is really dead on. I have known of people who go through any range of equipment issues trying to make up for bad playing technique. I have heard of players using a barrel that is 4 mm short to compensate.
I think one key thing that your site addresses very well is to aim to approach each instrument as a completely different entity. To use a huge tip opening on clarinet to make it feel more like a sax (or vise versa) generally causes a whole range of issues. Even within members of the same family the playing characteristics are very different. But I am not saying anything you don’t know!
Great article and spot on! Getting the fundamentals of proper embouchure and tongue position are something you must get from a good teacher.
Here is another issue that I have encountered that May tie into this one: I think that sometimes a player truly thinks they are playing in tune even though they are chronically flat. Perhaps they have a skewed perception of what ‘in tune’ should sound like? I have played beside more than one players (amateur and professional) who say they know they are sharp (even though they are actually quite flat). I usually pull out on my horn as much as I can without totally compromising my integrity with the rest of the ensemble. Then…sure enough… said stand partner, upon detecting a change in my center of pitch proceeds to pull out on their horn to make themselves even flatter:-/ Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon?
A few years ago a guy called me for private lessons. He was an an adult, probably in his early 30’s. We went over the usual routine typical of a first lesson- assembly, embouchure, notation, etc and played a few notes, working off of the first couple of pages from a lesson book. About a week later he called to tell me that he could probably figure out the rest by himself.
By any chance Bret, are you a clarinet teacher? I think what’s important is the sound that comes out of the horn. It may not be in the correct way but if it produces good intonation and sound it doesn’t matter how you get there. Your advice is excellent for young students but as you’ve probably guessed I’m a saxophone player that took up clarinet as a second instrument years ago. I’m too old and stubborn to change my ways. I found this blog because I do find myself playing flat occasionally. The comment about dealing with colder weather makes sense to me and I’ll probably get a slight shorter barrel for those situations.