Does material affect tone quality in woodwind instruments?: Why scientists and musicians just can’t seem to agree

Most woodwind players would be surprised if you asked them whether the material from which their instrument is made affects its sound. Certainly!—most would reply. An inexpensive nickel-plated flute has a tone lacking in character and brilliance, but a fine silver flute sounds, well, silvery! It has a tone that sparkles, that sings, that carries to the back of the concert hall. The most discriminating flutists might opt for the more luxuriant timbres of white, yellow, or rose gold, or even the rare and weighty quality of platinum.

And any self-respecting oboist or clarinetist would refuse to even consider an instrument made of lifeless black plastic. Only the finest aged African blackwood can provide the dark, rich, woody tone that a true artist requires. Bassoonists likewise insist upon bassoons made from the best maple, and preferably treated with a secret-formula varnish, which, like that of the famous Stradivarius violins, is rumored to impart a special vividness and resonance to the instrument’s sound.

And fine saxophones, though most often made from brass and lacquered in a gold color, can be special-ordered in silver or even gold plate, which, saxophonists just know, bestow a unique sonic personality. Some saxophonists are willing to pay a premium for certain hard-to-find French instruments made in the decade following World War II, which are reported to be made from melted-down artillery shell casings, and to have a correspondingly powerful quality of tone.

It seems to many musicians a self-evident truth that premium materials produce a premium sound. But scientists have believed for years that a woodwind instrument’s material has virtually no effect on the kind of sound the instrument produces.

Unsurprisingly, the scientific view has not been popular with the woodwind-playing crowd. Most have invested thousands of dollars in their personal instruments made from the rarest woods and shiniest jewelry metals. Most have been taught the subtleties of instrument selection by wise and respected teachers, and have dutifully passed the knowledge on to their own generations of students. But most of all, they have heard with their own ears the difference between a silver flute and a gold flute, or a plastic oboe and a wood one. They have held the instruments in their own hands and felt, deep in their gut, that different materials just sound different.

Theobald Boehm, the 19th-century flutist and metalsmith who virtually invented the modern flute, held to this idea. He wrote in 1871,

The greater or less hardness and brittleness of the material has a very great effect upon the quality of tone. Upon this point much experience is at hand. Tubes of pewter give the softest, and at the same time the weakest, tones; those made of very hard and brittle German silver have, on the contrary, the most brilliant, but also the shrillest, tones; the silver flute is preferable because of its. . . unsurpassed brilliancy and sonorousness; compared with these the tones of flutes made of wood, sound literally wooden.1

Clarinetist Geoffrey Rendall, writing in 1954, said that clarinets made of ebonite (a hard rubber compound) “somehow seem to lack the carrying power and expressiveness of wood.”

The tone can be taken just so far and no further. It lacks life and is no longer popular with professional musicians. . . . What has been said of ebonite may be said of metal. . . . it has the slight deadness of ebonite. . . 2

The woodwind player and historian Anthony Bates said in 1967 of the clarinet,

. . . [It] has a cylindrical tube . . . of African blackwood, which has replaced cocus; though possibly none of this jungle wood can rival the old Turkish boxwood, which for some reason gave especially fine results in clarinets. . . Many fine players have played on ebonite, which gives a sweeter though rather smaller tone than wood. Metal, on the other hand, does not seem to offer the right resistance, giving a tone that feels to most players rather vapid and uninteresting, and it is not used for high-class work.3

So why do scientists insist that material is effectively irrelevant?

Many woodwind players assume that, say, a clarinet vibrates like a violin soundboard or a drumhead, transmitting sound waves into the surrounding air. And, in fact, a clarinetist can feel the instrument vibrating in her hands when she plays.

The mistake here, according to scientists, is thinking that the vibrating instrument is what is producing the sound. Basic acoustics tells us that the woodwind instrument is merely a container for the real sound-producing body—a vibrating column of air.4

A number of scientists have undertaken to prove empirically that characteristics of a woodwind instrument’s sound are affected only by the characteristics of the air column. But there are several factors which make this a difficult proposition.

First, as every woodwind player knows, no two instruments play alike. Fine woodwind instruments vary from specimen to specimen. These variations range from the easily visible to the virtually undetectable, and interact in complex ways to affect the sound of the instrument. In order to accurately test the effect of wall material, these instrument-to-instrument variables must be eliminated.

A particular difficulty with eliminating these variables in woodwind instruments is the question of the instrument’s pads. Woodwind instruments have toneholes that are opened and closed by pads made of cork or animal skin. These pads are installed by hand by specialized craftsmen, and the process is widely regarded as more of an art than an exact science. Small variations in the organic materials involved, and in the pads’ installation, can cause very noticeable differences in the way each instrument plays.

A second consideration is the human physiological factor. A woodwind player’s embouchure—the way he uses the complex system of facial muscles to form an interface with the mouthpiece—is, as he will ruefully tell you, highly variable. Even the finest and most consistent players change their embouchures, at least imperceptibly, from moment to moment. Many of these subtle changes are made intuitively and without the player’s awareness of which muscles are being used, or maybe even that they are being used at all. The complex human respiratory system adds another comparable layer of problems. The human anatomy presents a highly complicated and hard-to-measure set of variables that must be dealt with in order to construct a scientifically acceptable experiment.

A third and even more mysterious factor is the influence of human psychology. Any bias on the part of woodwind players or listeners can affect their perception of an instrument’s sound. A bassoonist, for example, might consciously or unconsciously expect that, say, a bassoon with richly grained wood might have a “fuller” sound, or that a plastic bassoon will just sound more “plasticky.” The simple expectation of hearing a certain sound may influence the bassoonist (or a listener) to project that expectation onto the actual sound heard.

In a 1964 experiment, University of Southern California physicist Dr. John Backus attempted to determine the role of a clarinet’s body vibrations in sound production.5 Backus’s experiment centered on a clever and slightly comical gadget, with an artificial embouchure powered by a household vacuum cleaner. The clarinet’s tone holes were all closed (simulating a clarinetist playing the instrument’s lowest note), and the bell of the instrument was fitted with a muting device. When the clarinet was “played” via vacuum cleaner in this way, no sound waves could pass from the air column inside the clarinet directly into the air surrounding the instrument. Backus found that in this situation the instrument was virtually silent; the vibrating wood of the clarinet emitted such weak sound waves as to be inaudible to a human ear at a distance of one inch from the instrument’s body. Backus concluded that the wall vibrations of a clarinet are too small to produce a perceptible sound. Further, he speculated that if it were possible to make the instrument vibrate sufficiently to be heard, the consequence would not likely be a pleasant one; he pointed out that a similar phenomenon occurs when one of the instrument’s keys works loose and causes an annoying buzz. Backus’s further research reveals that the instrument’s body vibrations are due to the reed vibrating against the mouthpiece, not due to the vibrations of the enclosed air column.6

In 1971, the Journal of the Acoustical Society of America published a study by Dr. John Coltman, a physicist and researcher for the Westinghouse Electric Corporation.7 Coltman, an amateur flutist, attempted to test the sound properties of different woodwind wall materials while minimizing the effects of instrument variation, physiology, and psychology. Coltman’s experimental apparatus matched Backus’s for both ingenuity and hilarity, consisting of three cylindrical tubes: one of silver, one of copper, and one of blackwood, all identical in inner diameter. Each tube was fitted with an ostensibly identical flute headjoint made of Delrin plastic. The three flutes were arranged so that their headjoints passed through a shield, blocking the tubes from the flutist’s view, and the entire contraption was mounted on a central rod, which the player held onto (so as not to touch any of the tubes) and rotated to bring each of the headjoints into playing position.

In the first phase of the experiment, a panel of listeners (including nonmusicians and musicians, some of the musicians being flutists), was asked to listen to sets of three sample notes or groups of notes. Two of each three samples were played on one flute, and one sample was played on another, and the listeners were asked to identify which sample was played on a different flute than the other two. The results? The listeners were correct about one third of the time, the same result that would be expected from random guessing.

In the second phase of Coltman’s experiment, trained flutists were asked to blindly play each of the three flutes, and select one which they thought they could identify again. Then the flutists were instructed to spin the rod quickly so as to lose track of the selected flute, and then find it by playing each of the flutes again. Again, the results were essentially on par with random selection. Coltman interpreted these results to mean that neither flutists nor listeners could accurately identify a difference in sound between the three materials.

Decades of similar studies, especially the continued work of Backus at the University of Southern California, confirm and refine these results. But though the scientific evidence seems overwhelming, musicians still insist they can hear a difference. It is possible—even likely—that wall material does influence an instrument’s sound, but only in a number of indirect ways.

Materials may affect they way an instrument sounds before anyone ever plays it—by affecting the way the instrument is made. For example, some woods may respond better to instrument makers’ drills and reamers, and thus more faithfully reproduce the desired bore shape; certain metals may likewise cooperate better in taking the desired form. Or perhaps more expensive materials make better-sounding instruments because makers handle them with an extra measure of care. In the case of plated flutes or saxophones, instruments that seem to play especially well may be selected by the maker for a special finish of some precious metal.

It is also possible that the vibration of the instrument’s body is, in fact, audible to the player through the phenomenon of bone conduction, in which sound waves are transmitted through the bones of the head to the inner ear. If this is the case, it is possible that the instrument’s vibrations are minutely audible to the player. As Backus points out, there is no reason to believe that audible instrument body vibrations would be an improvement, but in any case the vibrations could conceivably affect the player’s perception of tone, and thus even affect his approach to playing the instrument, indirectly affecting what the audience hears.

But the most convincing theory of why musicians are so sure about gold flutes and maple bassoons is that the materials do, in many ways, affect the way the player feels. And, as any musician will tell you, nothing affects the music more than the way the musician feels. The smooth, polished wood of a fine oboe, the patina of the silver keys, even the gold of the maker’s emblem, lend the oboist confidence, comfort, perhaps a sense of luxury?—that come through in the way he or she plays.

While it seems clear from scientific investigation that, all else being equal, materials make no difference to a woodwind instrument’s sound, it seems equally clear from musical experience that all else is never equal. Factors as small as the precise brass alloy of a saxophone’s body can make all the difference in the world—not because of any acoustical effect, but because of the undeniable human element. So if you feel, deep in your heart, that a platinum flute or a rosewood oboe or a silver-plated saxophone will make you sound better, then it probably will make you sound better.

Woodwind players will continue to play the instruments that feel and sound right to them, no matter what the scientists have to say. And so they should! A musician’s instrument is the tool of his or her trade, a treasured possession, and a nearly constant companion. But perhaps a levelheaded understanding of the role of materials in a woodwind instrument’s sound can lead to better instruments—and better musicians—in the future.

Notes

1. Theobald Boehm, The Flute and Flute Playing in Acoustical, Technical, and Artistic Aspects (New York: Dover Publications, 1964).

2. F. Geoffrey Rendall, The Clarinet: Some Notes Upon its History and Construction (New York: Philosophical Library, 1954), 14-15.

3. Anthony Bates, Woodwind Instruments and Their History (New York: Dover, 1967), 117.

4. See, for example, William J. Strong and George R. Plitnik, Music – Speech – Audio (Provo, UT: Soundprint, 1992), 307-315.

5. John Backus, “Effect of Wall Material on the Steady-State Tone Quality of Woodwind Instruments,” The Journal of the Acoustical Society of America 36, no. 10 (1964 ): 1881-1887.

6. Ibid., 1883-84.

7. John W. Coltman, “Effect of Material on Flute Tone Quality,” The Journal of the Acoustical Society of America 49, no. 2 (1971): 520-523.

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  • Creating “lightness”

    Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, at no cost to you.

    Composers (or a performer’s interpretation) often call for “lightness” in music. How do you play a wind instrument “lightly?”

    When I discuss this with my students, they often suggest that the way to play lightly is to be lighter with their tongue. When I turn that around on them—”is there a situation where you should use a heavier tongue?—they are quick to say no, the tongue should never be heavy. Sometimes instead they suggest using “lighter” air, but upon further interrogation they aren’t able to explain that without stumbling into no-nos like “less air” or “less powerful support.”

    Creating musical lightness is easy, if not completely intuitive. The key is to forget about trying to make the tone light, and focusing instead on making the texture light. That means creating some contrast.

    For example, consider the second movement of the Bernstein clarinet sonata. After an Andantino introduction, the musicians are instructed by the composer to play “Vivace e leggiero” (lively and lightly). Here are clarinetist Wonkak Kim and pianist Eunhye Grace Choi:

    Notice the subtle but important contrasts Dr. Kim creates in the clarinet line. Many of the notes have a small accent at their beginnings, then quickly taper to a softer volume. Some notes get more emphasis from higher volume or from sustaining the note with less taper. The lightness comes from stringing softer notes between the more emphasized ones, or even from individual notes having louder and softer moments within them.

    The volume in the Bernstein clip is soft, but this approach is very effective at louder dynamics, too. I stress this when rehearsing my university’s jazz big band, since things can easily get heavy- or angry-sounding at fortissimo. To bring some lightness back into a loud, thickly-orchestrated passage, I ask the band to look for the marked or implied accents and let those set the fortissimo ceiling. The in-between notes can be brought back down perhaps to a comfortable mezzo-forte, giving the musical line some texture and headroom without losing the excitement of the louder dynamic.

    Creating lightness in music means giving some notes some gravity, so the others can float weightlessly.

  • Ask yourself these questions before becoming a woodwind doubler

    For me, there was a point in my education and career when I decided that I was a woodwind doubler, or at least that I was going to be one. Prior to that decision, I had really identified as a saxophonist, or maybe a saxophonist who doubled a little on the side.

    If you are thinking that serious woodwind doubling—committing to playing several instruments at the highest possible level—might be your thing, then I suggest you ask yourself these questions:

    • Am I willing to commit major practice time to each instrument?
    • Am I willing to accept a slower rate of improvement and/or more extensive practice routine than I would if I remained committed to a single instrument?
    • Am I willing to sacrifice or at least postpone some high-level performance goals on my primary instrument in order to devote time to my secondary instruments?
    • Do I have the resources and/or financial discipline to accumulate the necessary high-quality instruments and other equipment?
    • Do I have the guts to perform on instruments that aren’t my strongest one(s)?
    • Am I genuinely interested in and motivated by each of the instruments I intend to play?
    Photo, stonelucifer
    Photo, stonelucifer

    If you answered “no” to one or more, then you might be happier and more successful maintaining a single “primary” instrument, and taking a more casual approach to doubling. Or you may not have fully come to terms yet with the realities of woodwind doubling. Playing any one instrument well requires non-trivial investment of time and money, and very little of that can be truly recycled for a second instrument: if it takes you 10,000 practice hours to achieve your goals on your first instrument, expect to take another 10,000 to achieve the same goals on another.

    There are of course many advantages to woodwind doubling, which I won’t rehash in depth here other than to list a few: more and/or different employment opportunities, expanded musical experiences, and, for some, great fun. But it’s not for everyone (probably not for most people). If your answer is “yes” to each of the questions above, then carve out some extra practice time, start saving your pennies, and clear your calendar for some new opportunities.

  • Woodwind doubling and clarinet problems

    Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, at no cost to you.

    Here are a few of the common problems woodwind doublers have with the clarinet:

    Flabby/saggy/tubby/airy tone and flat pitch. This is a dead giveaway for a self-“taught” clarinet doubler. The clarinet’s voicing is quite high, higher than any of the other woodwinds, and beginning clarinetists sometimes struggle for years to make that proper voicing a consistent habit. Once it settles in, pitch problems mostly evaporate, tone becomes clear and ringing, and notes respond beautifully and easily in every register. If you’re thinking about buying a shorter barrel because your “clarinet” is so flat all the time, don’t. Work on your voicing instead. Voicing is the #1 crucial technique for successful clarinet doubling, and will solve most of your problems.

    It may also be worth checking your mouthpiece angle—it should be quite steep compared to saxophone or double reed instruments. Keep your head up straight and eyes forward, and aim in the ballpark of keeping the clarinet around 30° from vertical. You can also use the paper trick to make sure you’re taking in the right amount of mouthpiece.

    Reeds can be a contributing factor, too. Often (but not always) saxophonists lean toward a slightly more open mouthpiece and softer reed, while clarinetists lean toward a little more closed mouthpiece and stiffer reed. The strength you prefer on a typical saxophone mouthpiece may not be right strength for a typical clarinet mouthpiece.

    Constricted tone. Bafflingly, there’s a common pedagogical idea that clarinetists should tighten their embouchures to fix various problems. This is nonsense. Keep your jaw open to make space for the reed to vibrate, and let your lips (not your jaw/teeth) close around the mouthpiece, not tight but just airtight. Notes will respond more readily, with a fuller, prettier tone, and you can throw away the tape or paper or dental appliance you have been using to cushion your lower lip from your teeth.

    Squeaks. 95% of the time this is an issue of fingers failing to properly cover toneholes. (And 95% of the time, struggling clarinet doublers blame it on something having vaguely to do with embouchure, reeds, or the clarinet somehow just being a squeaky instrument.) Use the large, fleshy pads of your fingers (not the tippy-tips) to cover the holes. Sometimes a quick check in the mirror can reveal that your fingers aren’t where you think they are.

    Fingering awkwardness. The clarinet’s fingering system and unique overtone series provide tremendous advantages: an expansive range, clean and precise technique, and lots of useful alternate fingerings. (It’s superior to the saxophone’s “easier” system with awkward palm keys and relatively few alternates. Fight me.)

    But if you’re coming from another instrument, you might find the 12th between the lower and clarion registers confounding. That’s because you’re still thinking about the fingerings. Practice your scales, arpeggios, and études until your fingers move on autopilot, like they already do on your primary instrument. It can be done.

    The clarinet’s dreaded “break” as a technique concern is mostly a myth. Keep your support, voicing, and embouchure well-formed and stable, and just move your fingers. Your left index finger should rock or tilt between its tonehole and the A key, not hop (losing contact with the instrument) or slide (dragging along the key). Work toward a tiny, efficient, relaxed movement.

    The clarinet’s clever system of redundant pinky keys enables lightning-fast technique in virtually any key, but it takes real effort to learn to use them well. Remember that for those pinky-finger notes there aren’t really “standard” vs. “alternate” fingerings—you need to know them all well enough to use interchangeably. And if you have beginner habits like using both pinkies for third-line B, you will need to learn to use a single pinky in many cases for the most efficient and flexible approach.

    Ledger line catastrophes. Because of the clarinet’s broad tessitura, clarinetists have to be fluent in ledger lines above the staff (maybe more than you’re used to if you’re an oboist) and below the staff (more than you’re used to on any treble-clef woodwind). Hit the Baermann or Kroepsh books for thorough workouts spanning the clarinet’s range.

    Remember the best money you can spend on your clarinet playing isn’t another mouthpiece or barrel or book—it’s some lessons with an excellent teacher. Learn the instrument on its own terms, and, whatever you do, try not to sound like a doubler.

  • Woodwind instrument “care kits” are bad news

    Congratulations on your new student-level flute, oboe, clarinet, bassoon, or saxophone! Your music store’s friendly sales associate (or your online retailer’s auto-suggest software) is probably insisting that you purchase a “care kit” as well. This kit ostensibly contains all the items you need to keep your new instrument working well and looking shiny. I recommend that you do not buy it, because it is, at best, a waste of your money, and, at worst, a hazard to the instrument’s wellbeing.

    photo, Greg Williams
    photo, Greg Williams

    Here are some of the items that frequently appear in these terrible kits:

    • Polishing cloths. Chemicals or polishes (liquid or embedded in cloths) can gum up pads and mechanisms. Students can “polish” their instruments with a soft, dry cloth, like a piece of an old t-shirt. Your repairperson can remove the keys and do a more thorough polishing safely.
    • Swabs. Woodwind instruments should definitely have swabs, but beware the kinds in these kits.
      Silk is preferable for pull-through swabs (oboe, clarinet, bassoon, saxophone) because it is absorbent and compressible, so it’s less likely to get stuck inside the instrument than a cheaper felt swab. Even for a student instrument, it’s worth a few extra dollars to get silk.

      "headjoint swabs"
      “headjoint swabs”

      For flutes, avoid “headjoint swabs” that are little oddly-shaped pieces of chamois (or a synthetic version), unless you want to have to fish them out of the headjoint every time you try to use them. Instead, use the cleaning rod that came with the flute, plus a strip of fabric cut from an old bed sheet.
      The fuzzy “cleaning” brushes that look like giant pipe cleaners, that you insert and leave inside the instrument, do exactly the wrong thing by keeping all the moisture inside the instrument, instead of wiping it out like a good swab does.

    • Cork grease. Yes, for instruments with parts that friction-fit together with cork, such as clarinets, oboes, and saxophones. Flutes don’t have any corked joints (though some piccolos do). Some bassoons have corked fittings, but some have thread wrappings instead. Use cork grease on cork only—never on thread-wrapped or metal-to-metal joints.
    • Screwdrivers. Yikes! Woodwind instruments often have “adjustment” screws. Bored students and well-meaning dads can’t resist just tightening everything up, just to make sure. This leaves the instrument in unplayable condition, and only a professional can put those adjustment screws back just right.
    • Reed guards/cases. Yes! Keeping reeds in one of these generally keeps them intact and in playing condition for longer than the disposable ones that the reeds come in. Those little plastic or cardboard sleeves that clarinet and saxophone reeds come in don’t keep them flat when they dry. And oboe and bassoon reeds often come in tubes that are too flimsy for regular use, or hinged plastic cases that come apart in the instrument’s case, leaving the reeds to bounce around unprotected.
    • Mouthpiece brushes. These are basically little vegetable brushes, with scratchy synthetic bristles and the dreaded twisted-wire core, much too aggressive for cleaning clarinet and saxophone mouthpieces. Instead, try a gentle rinse with room-temperature water and a drop of mild dish detergent. Stephen Howard’s vinegar-and-cotton method is good for occasional deeper cleanings.
    • Neck or bocal brushes. Probably too aggressive for use on these particularly delicate and crucial instrument parts. Plus, a strong risk of getting something stuck.
    • “Tone hole cleaners.” These are usually garden-variety pipe cleaners. Tone hole cleaning isn’t a task for beginners to do. The pipe cleaners’ twisted-wire cores can damage toneholes, the instrument’s bore, or pads.
    • “Pad papers.” It’s really tempting to use a lot of pressure with these, which can distort pads and cause leaks. Some are coated with a powder—these operate on the same principle as getting some gum stuck on your shoe, then stepping in some dirt so the gum won’t keep sticking to the sidewalk when you walk.Pad papers and other powder treatments should be an emergency treatment applied wisely and carefully by a knowledgeable musician, not a daily treatment applied badly by a student.
    • Key-dusting brushes. Gently removing some dust from the instrument’s mechanism isn’t an all-bad idea, but be advised that it’s easy to knock springs and things out of place. The brushes in these kits usually have twisted-wire cores, which can scratch instruments’ finishes. Instead, consider using cheap kids’ watercolor paintbrushes. Or, even better, make sure the instrument gets professional maintenance and cleaning at least once a year.
    • Key oil. No, no, no. This is a job for a professional to do. Besides, the kind in these care kits is usually cheap 3-in-1-type oil. Even if applied properly, it tends to drip back out of the keywork onto fingers, or worse, pads.
    • Bore oil. Absolutely not. Using this at all (only in wooden instruments) is controversial. When you bring it in for its annual maintenance, your repairperson can apply bore oil properly and safely if they deem it necessary. (My opinion: if in doubt, don’t bother.)
    • Care manuals. These are generally provided to justify the other items in the care kit.

    Skip the care kit—they are a way for retailers to squeeze a few more dollars out of you at purchase, and then more when you bring the instrument back in to fix the damage you have done with your brushes and oils and screwdrivers.

  • The best _____ for woodwind doublers

    flute and clarinet
    Photo, Jope 1978

    What are the best instruments, mouthpieces, reeds, headjoints, method books, and other products for woodwind doublers?

    I often see this question asked on online message boards (“I’m a saxophone player, so which clarinet mouthpiece should I buy?”) or answered in advertising copy (“The perfect flute headjoint for the woodwind doubler”).

    When aspiring doublers ask this question, I think often what they are really asking is, “What product can I purchase that will save me having to really learn a new instrument?” If you’re serious about playing the flute, you’ll want to use the kind of flute that a good flutist would use. If you’re serious about the clarinet, you’ll seek out the kinds of reeds, mouthpieces, and instruments favored by fine clarinetists. In other words, the best clarinet for a woodwind doubler is… the best clarinet.

    To double successfully, you have to abandon the idea that you can double on flute and clarinet (and so forth) without having to commit to being a flutist and a clarinetist. There are no shortcuts!

  • Connecting observations to techniques

    If you are teaching a woodwind methods course, you might be interested in my book.

    In my woodwind methods class, I try to create lots of opportunities for students (future instrumental music educators) to practice observing woodwind playing and giving feedback. For the feedback to be useful, it needs to connect an observation to a technique. Here are some examples of what not to do:

    Observation without technique

    “Your tone sounds good.”

    “Your intonation is problematic.”

    “There are response issues.”

    First, it’s important that an educator can articulate their observations with clarity and detail. What is “good” about the student’s tone? (Are you saying that it is characteristic? That it is consistent from note to note?) What is problematic about their intonation? (Is it flat overall? sharp overall? Is it unstable over the course of a phrase? over the course of a single note?) What “issues” are there with response? (Notes responding late? Notes responding with extraneous noise?)

    But once the problem or success is clearly identified, it still isn’t of much use unless it comes with a recommendation.

    “Your tone is very consistent. Nice work using steady breath support.”

    “Your pitch is scooping upward into each note—be sure to articulate with just the tip of the tongue so your voicing remains stable.”

    “Let’s see if a softer reed will allow your notes to respond more quickly and clearly.”

    Technique without observation

    “Try relaxing your embouchure.”

    “Use more breath support.”

    “Keep your fingers close to the keys.”

    Barking orders without explanation might produce some short-term results, but when students know what result you’re trying to produce they can be proactive.

    “Remember, you can get that bigger, clearer sound if you relax your embouchure.”

    “Use more breath support so those high notes will be up to pitch.”

    “You’re having trouble covering the toneholes because your fingers are starting from too far away. Keep them closer so they can find the holes more easily.”

    When my students learn to give feedback that connects their specific, precise observations with clearly-taught techniques, they are preparing for fruitful lessons and rehearsals with their own future students.

39 Comments

  1. Interesting comment about wood !! I know that scientists think the material doesn’t affect the properties, but I remember a conversation between Alan Fox of Fox Bassoons and Arthur Benade (the acoustician) where Benade remarked the difference between one material and another is only a 1 or 2 percent change in sound. Alan remarked back for you Arthur that is very small, but for a professional musician that is a VERY BIG difference !!

  2. It’s interesting you say “most woodwind players”, as most of the woodwind players I know don’t think that different material affects the tone of the instrument. I’ve thought this ever since my first saxophone, which was made from plastic and sounded very much like a brass saxophone.

    But I do believe it’s true that if you feel good about your instrument it will help you play better, I feel better playing a horn that I like the look or feel of, whether that is luxurious satin gold finish or beaten up old brass patina.

    The stuff you hear about material is mostly marketing, and very few companies agree whether silver helps give you a bright sound or a dark sound, so we all tend to take that with a pinch of salt.

  3. “Maybe some musicians have spent time enough with instruments to be able to feel the 1 to 2 percent difference that scientists proved does exist, but can’t feel, between instruments of different materials.”

  4. A few years ago, I purchased a vintage metal clarinet to serve as an emergency back-up for my trusty Buffet R-13. I did some research and found that there’s a range of quality in metal clarinets, like any other instrument and I found one that might be classified as a low-pro level horn. I’ve asked my friends close their eyes and identify which one I was playing — no one could tell. It’s a fun instrument to play — and it’s real shiny!

  5. An former teacher of mine, bassoonist Ted Lapina, played a plastic Polisi bassoon while I knew him at Shenandoah. He insisted that it played better than any holy Heckel he’d ever played. His bassoon playing colleagues were scandalized, of course, but he stuck to his guns. I learned a healthy skepticism from him, back in the day.

    Thanks for a well written summary of this debate, which rages on and on and on and on. . .

  6. A great article! Thanks for sharing it.

    I have a few observations I’d like to add.

    “The mistake here, according to scientists, is thinking that the vibrating instrument is what is producing the sound. Basic acoustics tells us that the woodwind instrument is merely a container for the real sound-producing body—a vibrating column of air.”

    True enough, but the material that sets the vibration in motion and the material against which the vibrating air moves does affect the quality of the sound. Consider a gong. Would it sound the same if made of plastic? No! It’s the brass of the gong that initiates the vibration of the surrounding air, giving it the quality of the sound that you hear.

    The fallacy of Coltman’s experiment with flute tubes of different materials was his use of a plastic headjoint. The headjoint, more specifically the riser, has the most impact on the sound produced by the instrument. If he had used headjoints constructed of the same materials as the tubes, there probably would have been a more noticeable difference. He could easily have blindfolded the players and hidden the headjoints from view of the listeners to attain as much anonymity as he needed without using the plastic headjoints.

    I agree that “It is also possible that the vibration of the instrument’s body is, in fact, audible to the player through the phenomenon of bone conduction.” I tell my students this all the time. Just as a singer (or speaker) hears their voice differently from the listener, so, too does the instrumentalist.

    “But the most convincing theory of why musicians are so sure about gold flutes and maple bassoons is that the materials do, in many ways, affect the way the player feels. And, as any musician will tell you, nothing affects the music more than the way the musician feels. The smooth, polished wood of a fine oboe, the patina of the silver keys, even the gold of the maker’s emblem, lend the oboist confidence, comfort, perhaps a sense of luxury?—that come through in the way he or she plays.’

    True again. Additionally, one is more apt to take better care of a quality instrument – regular cleanings, keeping it in good adjustment, handling it with care – than one would a student model horn. This adds to the better quality of sound produced.

    1. Thanks for your comments. I have to disagree with you on a few points, based on my reading of Benade and others regarding the physics of woodwinds. Again, I’m not a real scientist, so I welcome any clarifications of concepts I may have misunderstood.

      I agree that in the case of a gong, which is an idiophone, the vibrations of the material itself are significant. But in the case of a flute (for example), which is an aerophone, I maintain that the material does not “set the vibration in motion” (Dr. Joe Wolfe gives an excellent summary of how this actually works); nor does the material interact in a significant way with the air column, other than to give it its shape (see Backus’s article, “Effect of Wall Material on the Steady-State Tone Quality of Woodwind Instruments, JASA, October 1964, which specifically addresses this point. To my knowledge, this article is not freely available online, but check your local library).

      No doubt Coltman would have preferred to use flutes made entirely of the same material for his experiment. But this would have created an even more fallacious result, since, as you and I know, every headjoint plays differently. There’s no verifiable scientific evidence (yet?) that the material of the headjoint have the “most impact” on tone. (However, there is a great deal of advertising from headjoint makers that makes this claim, invariably suggesting that the most shiny and expensive metals sound the best.)

      I do think you make a good point about the care that instruments made from nicer materials are likely to receive.

    2. “True enough, but the material that sets the vibration in motion and the material against which the vibrating air moves does affect the quality of the sound. Consider a gong. Would it sound the same if made of plastic? No! It’s the brass of the gong that initiates the vibration of the surrounding air, giving it the quality of the sound that you hear.”

      In case of woodwind instruments the material that sets the vibration in motion is the wooden reed mounted on your mouthpiece. Destpite of the fact that the saxophone is made of brass which is metal, it is categorised as woodwind instrument, because the sound vibration is created by a wooden reed. The material of which a woodwind instrument is made only shapes the sound column. When the soundwave leaves the instrument it has certain wavelenght and frequency. And these two properties are not affected by the body material of the woodwind instrument. But shape of the body and expecially the shape of the mouthpiece and the quality and material of the reed affect this absolutely. Sorry for my english.

      1. The single or double reed of a woodwind instrument is not made of wood. It is made from a plant called arundo donax.
        This is of the reed family ; hence the name “reed”.
        The material the reed is made of is called “cane” in English. In German the material is referred to as “Holz” or “Rohrholz” , which means “wood” or “tube wood”.Perhaps this is where the misconception that the material is wood has come from, also the misconception that the woodwind instrument is called so because the mouthpiece or reed is made of wood (which it isn’t).The name”woodwind instrument” comes from the fact that the body of the instrument is made of wood (including the flute).

  7. For years I have played a brass SML tenor sax, lacquered, dating from the early 60s. A fine instrument with a big sound.

    A few years back I came across another in a market, bought it and had it serviced so that iit played perfectly. An identical instrument, except it was chrome (yes chrome not silver) plated.

    I could not tell the difference between the sounds of them.

    I now own two Selmer 10S clarinets. There *is* a slight sound difference – but I think that may because one has leather pads, the other the more usual white ones. That one is going to get a repad …

  8. What? No comment on reeds and mouthpieces??!! And CHOPS??? I was with a friend one day in a music shop, and he took his mouthpiece, put it on a metal clarinet that looked like an old beaten up lamp, and proceeded to fill the store with the most beautiful clarinet voice imaginable. I’ll never forget that day, it was magic!

  9. I was wondering if the way in which breath moisture condenses on the bore of a clarinet affects the sound.

    I coated the inside of my Selmer Series 10 clarinet with a 50/50 mixture of liquid dish soap and water. I did not like the way it played.

    Removing the coating and re-oiling the clarinet returned it’s fine sound.

    Plastic Clarinets are sold with a mirror like bore. I have found that removing this mirror like finish with very fine (0000) steel wool improves the sound. (I only do this when I am repadding the clarinet.)

    Perhaps clarinet makers hobble plastic clarinets so as not to interfer
    with the sales of “Professional” wooden clarinets.

    If I was buying a new clarinet it would be a Buffet Greenline.

    Then I could say to players with a traditional clarinet:

    “That sounds good; too bad it’s made of wood”

    Dan Kennedy

  10. This subject is highly interesting; I agree with Dan Kennedy. The smoother the inside bore of the clarinet is, the better it sounds. Plastic bodies can be extremely smooth. The drawback of a plastic clarinet is however, that the body is not so much affected by the surrounding temperature as wooden clarinets. So when the pitch of the wooden clarinet is going up during playing, the plastic one does no go up in pitc at teh same rate. i notice that when playing duets with my students. I play German system Wurlitzers and I alwya wonder how it is that my good studenst are able to draw a good sound from their plastic Buffets or Bundys. In temperate climate zones this duet playing needs a fequent intervals of retuning. Art Marshall

  11. My daughter and I just finished her science fair project in which we double blinded sound samples from several cane, Legere, and Fibracell reeds. Four different professional musicians listened to the reeds and graded them on darkness, clarity, roundness, resonance, articulation and range. (Argue all you want about the choices, we went in knowing little about the physics of sound and came out with a ton of knowledge.)
    We found that in all cases accept articulation, the Fibracell was the favorite, and an overall Favorite in “beauty”, a totally subjective quality. (Legere was the least favorite and Vandoren cane was in the middle) Although not ALL grades agreed, there were only a few that had one judge grade in disagreement with the other three. It was pretty solid data.
    Additionally, spectragraphs and sonograms agreed with the ratings, showing physical proof of what the judges rated.
    Now a few caveats: My daughter liked playing the Legere best, and the Fibracell least. I was a bit surprised by the data because the Fibracell actually “closed up” in the higher octaves when played in an articulated chromatic scale. (I swear to god I never thought I would be using a sentence like that).
    Also, we included a Vandoren 2.5 because we had read the hardness numbers are not always accurate and the Fibracells are softer than their number suggests.
    The 2.5 cane reed BLEW all the other reeds out of the “contest” in every catagory!!!
    One of the music professionals helping with the project told us the Fibracell has a softer spine, that is why it failed like it did. Also, different cut mouthpieces favor different hardness of reed.
    We are going to do a small test tonight to see if a Legere 2.5 is rated better but due to a delivery error we don’t have time to include it in the science fair project. (Nuts)
    I hope you all find this interesting, and we would LOVE to hear your comments.
    I think this project (which grew out of proportion to a 7th grade science fair) should be repeated using more parameters such as different mouthpieces and reed hardnesses.

  12. While very interesting, I’m not sure that there is much there in the way of reliability . Unfortunately, cane reeds change in sound and sometimes quite drastically. So repeating the same study after playing on the same reeds for 20 minutes and THEN conducting the experiment could result in an entirely different data set. Also, I can attest that Legere reeds can sound and play better on some mouthpieces than others.

  13. I’d like to expand on the paragraph that starts with: “Materials may affect they way an instrument sounds before anyone ever plays it—by affecting the way the instrument is made.” I have read that wooden flutes sound different than metal ones because of the extra thickness of the wood and the manner in which the tone holes are made. Metal flutes have collars either drawn or soldered around the holes, but the holes on wooden flutes are drilled into the material and the surrounding material is level with the hole. I don’t know how that could translate into a sound difference, but it’s an example of the material affecting the way the instrument is made.

  14. I completely disagree however I am sure scientifically that there are materials that would result in the same quality of tone that is made with less desirable metals and woods when it comes to certain materials… the resonance vibrating factors and quality of craftsmanship play the most important role…

  15. Just like to point out that while the type of wood may not affect the sound, it affects how it’s made and how durable it is once finished. The density also very much affects the tone as lower density wood will actually leak air, though once you get past a certain quality it’s not much of a difference. But consider maple versus a cheaper wood like pine: Pine is full of sap and resin which even when fully dried is still present. The grain affects how easily the wood can be worked as well as how strong the instrument is. Granted, the difference between, say, maple and pearwood or boxwood may not be significant, but it’s still a factor. As for plastics, well, I play a lot of PVC instruments and they sound just fine.

  16. Well scientists won’t ever know more about flutes than musicians. We play these things, and know that material do makes a big difference on the playback. And it was such a detailed and thorough article I thought it would never end :)

  17. I thought this was a WONDERFUL post. I am an amateur oboe player with only a few years of lessons under my belt. I own a RS Berkley and rent a Yamaha 441. I was about to buy a used Loree and went to my teacher for help picking out a couple to have sent “on trial”. He not only discouraged me from buying another oboe (he seemed really confused by todays prices….thought you could get a used Laubin for $1,000), he suggested that I return my Yamaha because $55 a month was “pissing in the wind” and that I should learn to play what I had before I bought another instrument. When I asked to try his Loree I felt like I played and sounded better (I hadn’t read your post yet). He disagreed. I am most likely going to quit lessons and, as he put it “noodle” around on my own. I love the sound of the oboe and wanted to play for my own enjoyment, not to be a professional musician. I may still buy a Loree….because “I” think that it makes me sound better. GREAT POST

  18. “Or perhaps more expensive materials make better-sounding instruments because makers handle them with an extra measure of care. In the case of plated flutes or saxophones, instruments that seem to play especially well may be selected by the maker for a special finish of some precious metal.”

    I use to think this was likely until I realised that in order to do this, the manufacturer would playtest an instrument, and then totally disassemble it in order to get it plated, then re-assemble.

    The cost involved would probably not make it worthwhile.

  19. “Or perhaps more expensive materials make better-sounding instruments because makers handle them with an extra measure of care. In the case of plated flutes or saxophones, instruments that seem to play especially well may be selected by the maker for a special finish of some precious metal.”

    I agree with this opinion, but if I’d be honest, I think that here talent is the most important about playing musical instruments. Sometimes someone who hasn’t money to buy a good musical equipment plays better than that one who has the best saxophone or clarinet. I think it’s all about the talent and desire to create something cool, in this way it’s music.

  20. “Woodwind players will continue to play the instruments that feel and sound right to them, no matter what the scientists have to say. And so they should!” I found this a most detrimental attitude. Should we not care about the truth instead of simply believing what we choose and allow ourselves to be fooled? Or worse, forget the possibilities of what this can open up to us and stick to the limitations that our predetermined perception allows. That being said, I found your blog liberating. Knowing the science i.e. the facts about what does and doesnt affect the sound (your other arguments for what could be causing sound differentiation do not hold much weight either because they have no science to back them up or they dont to hold up to the scrutiny of logic when you think them through), is that now when I approach an instrument, I think about overcoming my psychologically induced prejudices and see ALL woodwinds as equal…if I CHOOSE to make them that way – instead of being a victim to my preconceived notions.

  21. I would say that scientists are probably right but it is kind of hard to believe that changing material doesn’t affect the sound. Btw great article!

  22. I remember a writeup by Benade where he stated that the difference in tone between plastic and wood clarinets is that plastic ones have sharp edges on the inside of the tone holes whereas wooden ones are very slightly rounded. He improved the sound of a plastic one by slight and careful rounding. The airflow around tone holes is complex and turbulent, and that is why a very small change in shape can be significant. Surprised this has not been brought up in this thread!

  23. Really informative article. And I have read all the comments which gives a clear idea. In my opinion, I think material affect a little in tone quality. And I do it in practical life.

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