Flexible EWI fingerings

With traditional woodwind instruments, the fingers work together to change the effective length of the instrument’s body tube by opening and closing toneholes. Woodwind fingerings at their most basic use the fingers in sequence. For example, a certain note might be produced with an “open” fingering (all toneholes open). When the “first” finger (the one closest to the mouthpiece) closes a hole, the pitch drops, perhaps by a whole step. Adding the next farther finger drops the pitch again, and so on toward the bell end of the instrument.

“Forked” fingerings, in which a lower tonehole is closed while one above it is open, often produce somewhat inferior results—notes that are mismatched in timbre and/or intonation. (Some modern woodwinds use special mechanisms to correct for this, such as the F resonance mechanism on a high-quality oboe.)

An electronic woodwind-style instrument, such as the Akai EWI series, uses a fingering system that is designed to be similar to a traditional woodwind, so that a traditional woodwind player can easily adapt to it. But this is an arbitrary choice. Since the instrument’s tone production system uses electronic circuitry and software, rather than a vibrating air column, the fingering system don’t necessarily have to use the fingers in sequence, and forked fingerings don’t have any inherent problems. The fingerings can be invented completely from scratch, with no acoustical limitations.

EWI fingerings are designed to draw upon the best of both worlds—the familiarity of traditional woodwind fingerings, and the flexibility of a non-acoustical fingering system.

Note that the current-model EWI4000s, using version 2.4 of the operating system, includes several fingering modes. The mode I am considering here is the “EWI” mode, as the “flute,” “oboe,” and “saxophone” modes sacrifice some flexibility for the sake of increased familiarity to traditional woodwind players. You might consider this article to be subtitled, “Why you should be using the ‘EWI’ fingering mode.”

The current manual (“revision D”) shows a mere 17 fingerings in its EWI mode fingering chart (11 chromatic pitches, with B-flat through D having fingerings in two octaves, and B-flat having one additional alternate fingering). But many, many more are possible.

We can consider the individual EWI keys as having individual functions, rather than being inherently interdependent. For example, pressing none of the keys produces a C-sharp:

C-sharp

Adding any key will alter the C-sharp pitch by a given amount:

key pitch change
(in semitones)
exceptions
LH 1 -2
LH bis -1 If both LH 1 and LH 2 are pressed, LH bis has no effect
LH 2 -2 If LH 1 is not pressed, LH2 produces -1 (this makes LH middle finger C possible)
LH 3 -2
LH pinky 1 +1
LH pinky 2 -1
RH side +1 No effect when used in combination with LH pinky 1
RH 1 -2 If LH 3 is not pressed, RH1 produces -1 (this makes 1 + 1 B-flat possible)
RH 2 -1
RH 3 -2
RH pinky 1 +1
RH pinky 2 -1
RH pinky 3 -2

If I press LH 1, LH 2, and LH 3, the pitch is lowered from C-sharp by a total of 6 semitones, producing the G fingering familiar to saxophonists, oboists, flutists, and clarinetists.

But that is only one possible combination. I could also produce a G with, for example, LH 1, LH 2, and RH 3. Or LH 3, LH pinky 2, RH 1, and RH pinky 2. These fingerings would be extremely unlikely to work on a traditional woodwind, but with the EWI the possibilities are wide open. As long as the total pitch change adds up to -6 (and accounting for any of the listed exceptions), you get a G.

Standard G fingering.(LH 1 + LH 2 + LH 3) = (-2 + -2 + -2) = -6 = G One alternative G fingering.(LH 1 + LH 2 + RH 3) = (-2 + -2 + -2) = -6 = G Another alternative G.(LH 3 + LH pinky 2 + RH 1 + RH pinky 2) = (-2 + -1 + -2 + -1) = -6 = G

These examples are illustrative but likely have few real-world applications. For a more practical example, consider trills, which among traditional woodwind players are a subject of endless discussion and books upon books of awkward, complicated fingerings. An ideal trill fingering involves moving only one finger, preferably one that can be moved in a rapid, controlled, non-awkward way.

Take a look at the following musical example (one that oboists will recognize).

This passage would be a nightmare to play using only Akai’s 17 listed fingerings, but is easily manageable if you take a moment to work out some alternatives.

Assuming that you are using the “side” B-flat fingering in the first measure, the most obvious A-flat to B-flat trill is to hold the B-flat fingering and trill will LH 3. However, if you prefer, LH 2 will work equally well, as will RH 3 or RH pinky 3. (LH 1 will not work, because of the LH 2 exception; that would produce an A-flat to B-natural tremolo.)

Awkward A-flat to B-flat trills using Akai’s published fingerings. (Alternate the blue and red keys.) A much better trill fingering.

The next problematic trill is F to G-flat in the last measure of line 2. I suggest holding the F fingering and trilling with RH pinky 1. (LH pinky 1 is also serviceable, but I find RH easier because RH 3 is free.)

F to G-flat trill

For the G-flat to A-flat trill in the same measure, I would hold the G-flat trill fingering (standard F, plus RH pinky 1) and trill with RH 1. (Again, there are more possibilities. In many cases the standard A-flat fingering trilling RH 1 would make sense.)

G-flat to A-flat trill

Try that whole measure—the fingerings are unfamiliar at first, but they lie very comfortably under the fingers and make for effortless trills.

Here’s what it sounds like:

Take a little time to experiment with your EWI’s fingerings, and see what you come up with!

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  • Q&A: Reeds

    Here are some of the questions readers sent me in celebration of this blog’s 10-year anniversary. I have edited, combined, and otherwise adapted some of them but hopefully there are answers here for those of you who were kind enough to inquire.

    How do you (or how do you help a student) select the appropriate hardness of reed?

    This is a careful balancing act and involves tradeoffs. In general a too-soft reed causes pitch instability (tending toward flatness), good piano response but limited forte range, improved low-register response but weak upper register, and a thin and/or bright tone. A too-hard reed usually has poor piano response, a more resistant low register, and a stuffy or labored tone.

    I find that many reed players use reeds that are too stiff, perhaps due to the strange but pervasive idea of “moving up” in reed strength as a rite of passage or indicator of skill.

    Also: with clarinet and saxophone, reed strength is (a) inconsistent between brands and (b) tied very closely to the characteristics of the mouthpiece, so it’s not especially useful to make broad recommendations (“beginners should start on a 2½…”). It’s entirely likely that two clarinetists playing different mouthpieces might need dramatically different reed strengths.

    How can I obtain better than mass produced double reeds for my beginning oboe and bassoon students? Do you have any tips on how to learn to improve already made reeds, store bought or otherwise?

    Absolutely double reed players should, if at all possible, work with private teachers for this very reason. The ideal scenario is for a private teacher to make and continually adjust reeds for beginning double reed players. An alternative might be to connect with nearby symphony players, professors or graduate students, military musicians, or other nearby double reeders who might be willing to sell reeds (face-to-face, so adjustments can be made) or do occasional reed classes or adjustment sessions.

    Improving/adjusting reeds involves some specialized skills, one of which is playing the instrument at a high level. Reed adjustment is an iterative process of making a small change and then testing, small change and test, small change and test. If you can’t play the instrument well, then reed adjustment is shooting in the dark.

    One possible exception is that minor changes to bassoon reed wires are basically reversible, so there may be some room to experiment with that. I won’t get specific here as wire adjustments have been dealt with in detail by many previous authors, but careful, small adjustments can potentially improve response in various registers, pitch, and tone.


    Thanks for your questions, and good luck with your reeds!

    More 10-year anniversary Q&A

  • Breath support

    Quick: define “breath support.”

    I fear that to many woodwind players (or wind players in general, and maybe singers too) breath support is something mysterious. I have often had teachers stress to me the importance of breath support, but I can’t remember ever having one explain clearly what it is. Read More “Breath support”

  • Reader email: Chinese woodwinds

    Some dizi and xiao from my collection

    I recently got email from a reader about the use of Chinese woodwinds in theater and film music. I did my best to answer his questions, and I’m posting them here in case they are of use to anyone else. Both questions and answers are edited here for length and awesomeness.

    My question for you is about bamboo flutes. I see the term bamboo flute thrown around (such as in the reed 1 book for Aida) and I wonder what exactly that means. Do those musicians own 12 bamboo sticks with holes drilled in them, or do they use a specific style of bamboo flute from a particular part of the world?

    If the part calls for “bamboo flute” with no other clarification, I think that leaves it pretty well open to interpretation by the flutist and musical director. Aida is set in the Old Kingdom of Egypt, where, according to my Wikipedia research, bamboo per se did not grow. Probably the best-known bamboo-ish Egyptian flutes are neys, made from bamboo-like reeds.

    My guess is that most woodwind players would substitute some variety of bamboo transverse flute, such as an Indian bansuri, a Chinese dizi (perhaps with the buzzing membrane replaced by a piece of tape), or a non-culture-specific bamboo flute like those sold by Erik the Flutemaker. Doug Tipple’s PVC flutes make an excellent and economical substitute for bamboo, with nice tone (I dare you to hear the difference) and consistent intonation and response. You might be able to contact musicians who have worked on specific shows, and find out what solutions they came up with; the Internet Broadway Database is a good starting point.

    Your listing for The Lion King is much more specific, which brings me to my next question: dizi keys. I happen to be in China right now. Tunable dizi flutes are cheap, and one-piece dizi are cheaper. Do I need 12 tunable dizi? What keys are actually played in theater and film in the US? Read More “Reader email: Chinese woodwinds”

  • Beginners, parents, and making double reeds

    I am in touch fairly often with parents (and school band directors) about their young oboists and bassoonists. Obtaining suitable reeds at an affordable price is of course an Ongoing Problem for beginning double reed players and their adjacent adults. Invariably my advice is that they connect with a private teacher who can supply and adjust reeds. But there aren’t many of those in the area, and, of course, they cost money, so sometimes the conversation turns toward reedmaking, which they may have read about on the internet and which seems to them like a promising solution.

    If you are a parent or band director, here is what you need to know about reedmaking:

    photo, Javier
    photo, Javier
    • Making oboe or bassoon reeds is an art that takes many years to master.
    • While there are some fine books, videos, etc. that teach reedmaking concepts, there is no substitute for studying reedmaking with an oboe or bassoon teacher.
    • Reedmaking ability is very dependent on playing ability. Most of reedmaking is an iterative process of testing the reed, making a tiny adjustment, testing again, adjusting again, and so forth. A beginner’s playing level isn’t enough for reedmaking, even if they somehow manage to master the physical reedmaking techniques. (At youngest, I might start reedmaking with a very dedicated and talented high school junior.) This is also why it won’t work to learn to make reeds yourself for your child or student, unless you already happen to be a fine oboist or bassoonist.
    • Reedmaking is expensive! Someone studying the art of reedmaking will make many, many, many reeds before it starts to be a good deal financially. A minimal set of tools can be had for maybe the cost of a couple of car tires, but will require the purchase of cane that is already partially prepared. Each piece of prepared cane costs about as much as a large order of French fries, and a beginning reedmaker may ruin dozens or hundreds of them before making their first somewhat usable reed, and hundreds or thousands more before they can make reeds as good as ones from an excellent private teacher. (Cane purchased in its raw tube form is cheaper, but requires additional equipment costing as much as a transatlantic flight, plus extra hours of work.)
    • It may be worth pointing out, too, that reedmaking involves razor-sharp tools. These can of course be handled safely with proper training, but it’s still a concern where small hands are involved. Pieces of cane can be dangerous, too—I’ve cut myself more times with sharp or jagged pieces of cane than I have with knives or razor blades.

    The best thing you can do for your beginning oboists or bassoonists is to pair him or her with excellent teachers who can help them improve their skills on their instruments, make and adjust reeds for them, and lay the groundwork for future instruction in reedmaking.

  • Stale air

    The “stale air” phenomenon afflicts oboists (sometimes clarinetists and others). It can be hard to relate to if you haven’t experienced it.

    Here’s how it happens. (The “math” and “science” here are very simplified for clarity.)

    The oboist breathes in a lungful of air. The air is about 20% oxygen and 80% other gases. The oboist’s body starts absorbing the oxygen and replacing it with carbon dioxide.

    The oboist starts to play. The oboe reed has a small opening in it, so the air leaves the oboist’s lungs slowly.

    A few moments later, the oboist’s body has replaced the oxygen with carbon dioxide. But the player’s lungs are still, say, 50% full. The oboist’s brain needs oxygen and starts urgently demanding a breath.

    The oboist tries, but his or her lungs are still 50% full of “stale” (un-oxygenated) air. He or she can only get a half-breath of “fresh” oxygen-rich air. Now the player’s lungs contain 10% oxygen, which isn’t going to last long.

    This cycle repeats a few times while the oboist gets more and more uncomfortable.

    The oboist finally panics and quits playing to “reset” his or her breathing and get some oxygen.

    A well-meaning educator sees the oboist struggling with breathing. He or she unhelpfully pencils in a few more breath marks. This is going to make the problem worse as the oboist takes even more unneeded breaths.

    The solution to this is to figure out an outlet for the stale air. (Taking smaller breaths isn’t a great solution because it encourages weaker breath support.) In some cases it may be necessary to use a “breath” to actually exhale stale air. Then, after playing a little more, get a satisfying breath into emptier lungs. In other cases, it might be a better solution to do a quick out-in breath.

    Stale air isn’t something that people encounter day-to-day. So it’s not well understood, sometimes even by oboists and other wind players who deal with it. Being aware of the problem makes it relatively simple to solve.

  • Full-range scales and arpeggios

    My students at the university are subject to a department-wide requirement to pass a scale exam, in which they must demonstrate mastery of major and minor scales. The format of the scales, however, is left up to the individual studio professors.

    Most of the studios require scales to be played in octaves, but I prefer a different approach. To the chagrin of my students (oboists/clarinetists/bassoonists/saxophonists), I require that they are played in this format:

    1. Start on the first scale degree, in the instrument’s lowest octave.
    2. Proceed upward in an even rhythm (such as even eighth notes) to the highest note in the instrument’s “range” that falls within the scale (according to an upper range limit that I set).
    3. Proceed downward to the instrument’s lowest note that falls within the scale.
    4. Proceed back upward to the starting note.

    So, for example, an oboe student’s E-flat major scale goes like this:

    I also require arpeggios, following the same rules:

    Here is why I insist on full-range scales: Read More “Full-range scales and arpeggios”

24 Comments

  1. Thanks for what I hope is turning into a series on wind controllers. I don’t know anyone who as one, which makes it hard to learn what they will do. Do you have any thoughts on the simpler (and less expensive) USB models by Akai and Yamaha. By the way, which patch did you use for the audio clip?

    1. Hi JK,

      Definitely keep an eye open for more wind controller stuff here in the future. You might also check out some related links and visit the websites and blogs of some other wind controller players.

      I don’t have anything more than a passing acquaintance with the Akai USB or the Yamaha WX series. My understanding is that the Akai USB has essentially the same capabilities as the Akai 4000s, except that is has to be plugged into a computer and has fewer octave rollers. I don’t know that the Yamaha is any simpler than the Akai, but it is actually more expensive because it requires an external sound module (sold separately).

      For the audio clip, I used the “Phazar” patch (#58) from the Patchman sound bank.

      Thanks for your comment!

  2. Great article! I’m almost embarrassed to admit that I have been using the sax fingerings on EWI, mostly because of G#. On sax, the right hand fingers close the G# key even when you keep you have G# pressed, so when I play in sharp keys, I have a tendency to keep my left pinky on the G# key. The sax mode on EWI lets me get away with this, and behaves like a sax, whereas the EWI mode does not.

    Maybe I’ll take a shot at EWI mode again, though. Like you say, the increased flexibility might make the transition worth it. Thanks for the insights.

    @JK – The Akai EWI-USB is indeed similar to the EWI4000s except with 2 less octaves, no built in sound module and connects to a computer via USB, so you don’t need a MIDI interface. It’s ideal if you want to use your computer as your sole sound source.

    1. Right—this is the trade-off of the EWI fingerings versus the flute/oboe/saxophone fingerings. The EWI fingerings are powerful but don’t tolerate much laziness.

      For me, there’s enough of a learning curve with the breath control, the octave rollers, etc. that the flute/oboe/saxophone fingering modes don’t smooth the transition to a significant extent. Might as well learn the EWI fingerings while I’m getting to know the instrument.

      The saxophone mode, at least, seems to be the most faithful to “real” saxophone fingerings (you only really lose some palm keys, the side F-sharp, and the low B-flat). The flute and oboe modes are farther from real woodwind fingerings, and could really only become more accurate with hardware modifications.

      Thanks for the confirmation/clarification about the EWI-USB.

  3. Bret: Thanks for all your notes. Really appreciated.

    The sound file seems to be outdated and cannot be found. Can you update it, please? I would like to hear it.

    Also, since the EWI fingering is just programmed in (so, there is no need for an specific route to follow since there is not real tubing to be enlarged or shorted to change the pitch, as in any “real” wind instrument…) do you think that it could be possible to program the EWI to form even some other alternative fingering schedule/chart?

    (Going back to the “real” wind instrument that I mentioned before: I think that I should have used “analog” wind instrument instead, since the EWI – at least IMHO – it is a very “real” instrument indeed)

  4. I didn’t have any previous woodwind experience before I got an EWI. What I found fastest was to memorize the C maj scale starting with all fingers down, then internalize the +/- halfstep/wholestep “extra” keys. I sometimes run into parts that I have to refinger (trills, as you point out, sometimes), but for 95% of the things I play, this one set of fingers works fine.

    Nice web site, just stumbled across it.

  5. I am flautist and started out using the flute fingering but quickly gave up and switched to the EWI fingering a) because I kept on tripping myself up with D (you can’t lift the index finger of your left hand on the EWI and still get a D) and b) because of the way, as Bret says in this article, that you can use the little fingers of both your hands to make difficult transitions easier, for instance playing a C♯ with RH side key to give a D at the top of the octave without having to play over the break.
    Great article. Thanks Bret.

  6. I played clarinet originally and started with the EWI fingering from scratch.

    As outlined in this article, there is an abundance of alternate fingerings, either leaving keys open or use of various forks + the side keys.

    I started to write a ‘chart’ for all of them but gave up – it bordered at writing a thesis…

    I found depending on the actual key you are playing in (or the lick) there are some optimal fingerings or rather fingering sequences available – only patience and experimentation (and a good memory) will get you there, but it’s worth it.

    To be able to play e.g. 4 bars of 16th at 180 jumping seamlessly from B to Eb to D then to F# will impress listeners… (as long as it sounds good)…

    PS I have to admit (this is really embarassing) I also ‘cheat’ sometimes: playing a fast lick with e.g. B or Db chords in it I simply leave the left pinky on K6 and ‘play’ C or D ‘scales’ instead, or slaving thru Ab minor I leave pinky on K5 and ‘play’ in A minor … you still need to know what you are doing and when to let go for blue notes/any extra chromatics required… but the EWI does the semitone up or down over a whole range brilliantly.

    Imho whoever designed this fingering system is a genius.

  7. Hello and thank you for your article. I’ve had an EWI for a month and I thought I would stick to the saxophone fingering since I would be able to reuse that knowledge later on a real saxophone.
    However, after trying the real thing, I think I’ll stick to the EWI. In that perspective it would be foolish not to take advantage of the EWI fingering. It’s more permissive but in the end, what counts is whether you do good music, not how easily it was obtained. Finally I’m more a “relative” player than an “absolute” one, so notes modifiers is a good way to approach it for me.

  8. Hi,
    just to let you know this article (and actually a lot more of them) will be a lifesaver for me, 5 years after it was written.
    I didn’t find the way the keys worked anywere else, and I need this much more than any diagram filled with 200 fingerings ^^

    I’ll be starting EWI in a few days after wanting to play it for a few years(sadly I didn’t have the money etc as a teenager back then) since I discovered artists like Masato Honda or Brecker. Ideally I’ll get to saxophone (but as a college student I’m not allowed to play such a loud instrument and I’d just bother everyone) but you really convinced me to use EWI fingering (I was actually wondering for a while on which one to pick), in hindsight it looks like forthmentionned musicians use the EWI fingering even though they played saxophone when EWI was still lyricon :p (Then again Honda is a monster with 4 different woodwinds and good with others each with different fingerings)

    So really thanks for this.

  9. Not completely relevant, but I just got a Kentron MIDI USB HOST that allows me to play the EWI USB through my Alesis QSR without a computer.

    1. This seems to be what I have been looking for to connect my EWI-USB directly to my Roland MIDI synth. How did it work for you? And does the Kenton adapter appropriately power the EWI? Thanks!

  10. I AM UNABLE TO LOCATE THE 9 PAGES OF FINGERING CHART DIAGRAM FOR THE AKI EWI 4000 HORN CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME

  11. Finding this article was for me like a blind man regaining sight! I’m new to the Akai-USB EWI, and only intermediate on woodwinds in general, so your explanation of adding/subtracting tones from C# was very enlightening to me; as you say, make whatever fingerings work for you! Thank you.

    On a side note, I’m looking for a way to plug my Akai EWI-USB into my 1980s Roland MIDI synth. Not only do I need some sort of USB-B male (or USB-A female) to MIDI male cable, but I also need to power the EWI. Do you know of any such adapter out there? Thank you again. (And yes I will check out the Kentron MIDI USB HOST that someone mentioned.)

  12. Where in gods name can I find a complete fingering chart for EWI mode? Seems like the manual omits so so many options.

    1. Since the EWI allows (from B to D#) 16 ‘tones’ in one ‘go’ and humans got 10 fingers, the resulting number of fingering possibilities can’t be unlimited , but of course it would be a hell of a lot of permutations. Most of those would result in ‘unfriendly’ and / or dud fingerings, but quite a few are very useful.

      Here is a chart which may add a few fingerings to the ‘repertoire’: (by M.G. Bauer):

      http://mjbauer.biz/REMI%20Bauer%20EWI%20Fingering%20Chart.pdf

      1. hey that looks great! i’m a little confused by the app though. Looking at C#, I don’t see the “open” fingering (IE no keys pressed should be C#). It’s also unclear from the shading of keys which indicate pressed and which don’t.

        I’ve since been OK on the fingering front, but think this is a great app. I think you should add a key to it to help folks understand.

  13. Thanks for the great article. It has really helped me with learning to play EWI as a first instrument.

    I happened upon one more interesting key behavior that may interest you. You list LH 1 as having an effect of -2 semitones. What I find in EWI Standard fingering mode is that if LH 2 is pressed then LH 1 has the effect of -3 semitones.

    I don’t know how much musical value this has, although I can say that the Beatles song “Hard Day’s Night” has a recurring 3 semitone interval that can be done with one finger using LH 1.

    Ed

    1. Hi Ed, if you take a closer look I think you’ll see that the behavior you describe is accounted for in my model (note the “exceptions” for LH2). Pressing LH2 alone has an effect of -1 semitone. Adding LH1 drops the pitch another 2 semitones, plus cancels the LH2 exception, for a total of -4 semitones. That’s a difference of -3 semitones between the two notes.

  14. Dear Sir
    I am an amateur musician. My instruments are the clarinet and saxophones. I woul like to digitize them for time reasons.
    I have seen his lessons on the internet: very interesting.
    Is it possible to first set the buttons on the AE-10 or AE-30 so that in addition to the
    sax I can practice clarinet fingering? Or is better AKAI EWI SOLO?
    Thanks a lot for your answer and I extend my congratulations and my best regards.

    Armando Bersani

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