Flexible EWI fingerings

With traditional woodwind instruments, the fingers work together to change the effective length of the instrument’s body tube by opening and closing toneholes. Woodwind fingerings at their most basic use the fingers in sequence. For example, a certain note might be produced with an “open” fingering (all toneholes open). When the “first” finger (the one closest to the mouthpiece) closes a hole, the pitch drops, perhaps by a whole step. Adding the next farther finger drops the pitch again, and so on toward the bell end of the instrument.

“Forked” fingerings, in which a lower tonehole is closed while one above it is open, often produce somewhat inferior results—notes that are mismatched in timbre and/or intonation. (Some modern woodwinds use special mechanisms to correct for this, such as the F resonance mechanism on a high-quality oboe.)

An electronic woodwind-style instrument, such as the Akai EWI series, uses a fingering system that is designed to be similar to a traditional woodwind, so that a traditional woodwind player can easily adapt to it. But this is an arbitrary choice. Since the instrument’s tone production system uses electronic circuitry and software, rather than a vibrating air column, the fingering system don’t necessarily have to use the fingers in sequence, and forked fingerings don’t have any inherent problems. The fingerings can be invented completely from scratch, with no acoustical limitations.

EWI fingerings are designed to draw upon the best of both worlds—the familiarity of traditional woodwind fingerings, and the flexibility of a non-acoustical fingering system.

Note that the current-model EWI4000s, using version 2.4 of the operating system, includes several fingering modes. The mode I am considering here is the “EWI” mode, as the “flute,” “oboe,” and “saxophone” modes sacrifice some flexibility for the sake of increased familiarity to traditional woodwind players. You might consider this article to be subtitled, “Why you should be using the ‘EWI’ fingering mode.”

The current manual (“revision D”) shows a mere 17 fingerings in its EWI mode fingering chart (11 chromatic pitches, with B-flat through D having fingerings in two octaves, and B-flat having one additional alternate fingering). But many, many more are possible.

We can consider the individual EWI keys as having individual functions, rather than being inherently interdependent. For example, pressing none of the keys produces a C-sharp:

C-sharp

Adding any key will alter the C-sharp pitch by a given amount:

key pitch change
(in semitones)
exceptions
LH 1 -2
LH bis -1 If both LH 1 and LH 2 are pressed, LH bis has no effect
LH 2 -2 If LH 1 is not pressed, LH2 produces -1 (this makes LH middle finger C possible)
LH 3 -2
LH pinky 1 +1
LH pinky 2 -1
RH side +1 No effect when used in combination with LH pinky 1
RH 1 -2 If LH 3 is not pressed, RH1 produces -1 (this makes 1 + 1 B-flat possible)
RH 2 -1
RH 3 -2
RH pinky 1 +1
RH pinky 2 -1
RH pinky 3 -2

If I press LH 1, LH 2, and LH 3, the pitch is lowered from C-sharp by a total of 6 semitones, producing the G fingering familiar to saxophonists, oboists, flutists, and clarinetists.

But that is only one possible combination. I could also produce a G with, for example, LH 1, LH 2, and RH 3. Or LH 3, LH pinky 2, RH 1, and RH pinky 2. These fingerings would be extremely unlikely to work on a traditional woodwind, but with the EWI the possibilities are wide open. As long as the total pitch change adds up to -6 (and accounting for any of the listed exceptions), you get a G.

Standard G fingering.(LH 1 + LH 2 + LH 3) = (-2 + -2 + -2) = -6 = G One alternative G fingering.(LH 1 + LH 2 + RH 3) = (-2 + -2 + -2) = -6 = G Another alternative G.(LH 3 + LH pinky 2 + RH 1 + RH pinky 2) = (-2 + -1 + -2 + -1) = -6 = G

These examples are illustrative but likely have few real-world applications. For a more practical example, consider trills, which among traditional woodwind players are a subject of endless discussion and books upon books of awkward, complicated fingerings. An ideal trill fingering involves moving only one finger, preferably one that can be moved in a rapid, controlled, non-awkward way.

Take a look at the following musical example (one that oboists will recognize).

This passage would be a nightmare to play using only Akai’s 17 listed fingerings, but is easily manageable if you take a moment to work out some alternatives.

Assuming that you are using the “side” B-flat fingering in the first measure, the most obvious A-flat to B-flat trill is to hold the B-flat fingering and trill will LH 3. However, if you prefer, LH 2 will work equally well, as will RH 3 or RH pinky 3. (LH 1 will not work, because of the LH 2 exception; that would produce an A-flat to B-natural tremolo.)

Awkward A-flat to B-flat trills using Akai’s published fingerings. (Alternate the blue and red keys.) A much better trill fingering.

The next problematic trill is F to G-flat in the last measure of line 2. I suggest holding the F fingering and trilling with RH pinky 1. (LH pinky 1 is also serviceable, but I find RH easier because RH 3 is free.)

F to G-flat trill

For the G-flat to A-flat trill in the same measure, I would hold the G-flat trill fingering (standard F, plus RH pinky 1) and trill with RH 1. (Again, there are more possibilities. In many cases the standard A-flat fingering trilling RH 1 would make sense.)

G-flat to A-flat trill

Try that whole measure—the fingerings are unfamiliar at first, but they lie very comfortably under the fingers and make for effortless trills.

Here’s what it sounds like:

Take a little time to experiment with your EWI’s fingerings, and see what you come up with!

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    When I hear my students playing heavy, thumpy accents, I ask them how they are playing the accents. The answer is usually the same: “tongue harder?”

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    As with most aspects of musical interpretation, this leaves a great deal of room for variation; accents can have many characters and shades. But none of those should include thuds or thumps (unless, I suppose, called for by the composer). Practice beautiful and stylish accents by slowing down the music enough to give each accented note a graceful decrescendo.

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    Why scales?

    I recently asked one of my (woodwind) students why she thinks I make her practice scales. She didn’t have a ready answer, and I realized maybe I hadn’t been clear about the value of scales. Here are some reasons to practice scales (and arpeggios, and other methodical technical materials):

    photo, Aprilyn Podd
    • To develop good finger movement. Scales provide a systematic way to work each finger, and to work them together in just about every combination.
    • To build familiarity with the instrument. A rigorous scale routine makes you use every key and every fingering on the instrument.
    • To get comfortable playing in every key.
    • To explore the instrument’s range. Full-range scales are a good way to make yourself play in the highest and lowest registers of the instrument every day.
    • To provide a canvas for working on other techniques. Ever notice how woodwind instruments articulate a little differently on different notes? How different notes respond differently to vibrato? How some notes tend to be flat or sharp? Learn your scales well, and then use them as a way to take those techniques through every note on the instrument.
    • To train for musical situations. Most music is made up of bits and pieces of scales and arpeggios. Getting those patterns into muscle “memory” frees up mental bandwidth for sight-reading, ensemble, expression, and more.
    • To develop your ears. Internalize major, minor, diminished, whole tone, chromatic, and other modalities.
    • To satisfy requirements. If you are a music student at just about any level, scales are probably part of your lessons, exams, and auditions for the foreseeable future.
    • To have a familiar, habitual technical workout that you can improve upon for the rest of your life, without need for an étude book.

    Practice scales every day!

  • The future of woodwind instruments

    Here are a few predictions (or wishes) about the woodwind instruments we might be able to buy in the future.

    Personalized ergonomics

    With the amount of worry musicians expend over repetitive motion injuries and other playing-related ailments, it’s truly baffling that instruments are still almost entirely a one-size-fits-all affair.

    For just one example: for generations, saxophonists have applied cork or other stuff to their palm keys to help avoid collapsing the hand to press them. Most of the finest saxophones in the world still offer palm keys in a single height, meant to accommodate child and adult hands, male and female hands, large and small hands. (A couple of exceptions are Keilwerth’s wrench-adjustable left hand palm keys, and Cannonball’s “Stone Series” instruments, which can be purchased or retrofitted with stone touchpieces of varying heights for both left and right palm keys.) And this is only one of the ergonomic issues of saxophones and other woodwinds.

    Imagine buying a production woodwind instrument that had fully adjustable keywork that could be matched to your individual hands. This could be done with interchangeable parts, or with keywork adjustable via screws or other means.

    Related to this is a need to re-examine the possibilities of plateau (“closed”) keys. Most of the modern woodwinds have at least some fingerholes or keys with holes in them, and these cannot be moved to accommodate ergonomics without affecting pitch and tone. But the touchpieces on a saxophone or bass clarinet can largely be located according to convenience, to open or close toneholes somewhere else on the instrument’s body. Our largely unfounded derision of plateau keys on woodwind instruments prevents us from embracing much better ergonomic possibilities.

    New materials

    Far too much credit is given to materials, especially if those materials are costly and pretty, for their contribution to an instrument’s sound. Inventors have created incredible new materials for aerospace, automotive, and electronics applications. Why couldn’t we make woodwind instruments out of amazing new materials that are inexpensive, crack- and dent-resistant, sustainable, lightweight, and beautiful? (Buffet-Crampon’s “Greenline” instruments are an example of high-quality instruments made from synthetic materials.)

    A move to new materials could reduce investment in instrument purchase and maintenance, prevent the heartbreak of a new clarinet or oboe cracking, stop over-harvesting of certain woods, and reduce repetitive-motion injuries.

    And it wouldn’t be the first time woodwind players gave up traditional materials for better ones; there aren’t a lot of players still using boxwood flutes and clarinets.

    Imagine, too, the possibilities of reeds and pads that are long-lasting, stable, and consistent.

    Player-maintainable

    It’s axiomatic among woodwind players that good instrument technicians are getting harder to find. In my rural area, it’s a 2½-hour drive to a city where I can get my high-quality instruments worked on competently, by people doing instrument repair in their homes rather than in music stores or commercial repair shops.

    Many woodwind instruments have at least some adjustment screws or other relatively intuitive ways to keep them adjusted and playing well. Installing pads is still somewhat of a specialist art, but imagine how that could change with improved materials for pads and for toneholes, and with approaches like MusicMedic’s “self-leveling” Neo Pads.

    Imagine instruments that are user-adjustable using common household tools or tools included with the instrument, supplemented with detailed instructional videos. Some routine tasks like pad or bumper replacement could become the player’s responsibility, or something that could be done by a minimally-trained music store employee, school band director, or private teacher.

    Your turn

    Let me know what features and qualities you would like to see in the woodwind instruments of the future!

  • Reader email: Chinese woodwinds

    Some dizi and xiao from my collection

    I recently got email from a reader about the use of Chinese woodwinds in theater and film music. I did my best to answer his questions, and I’m posting them here in case they are of use to anyone else. Both questions and answers are edited here for length and awesomeness.

    My question for you is about bamboo flutes. I see the term bamboo flute thrown around (such as in the reed 1 book for Aida) and I wonder what exactly that means. Do those musicians own 12 bamboo sticks with holes drilled in them, or do they use a specific style of bamboo flute from a particular part of the world?

    If the part calls for “bamboo flute” with no other clarification, I think that leaves it pretty well open to interpretation by the flutist and musical director. Aida is set in the Old Kingdom of Egypt, where, according to my Wikipedia research, bamboo per se did not grow. Probably the best-known bamboo-ish Egyptian flutes are neys, made from bamboo-like reeds.

    My guess is that most woodwind players would substitute some variety of bamboo transverse flute, such as an Indian bansuri, a Chinese dizi (perhaps with the buzzing membrane replaced by a piece of tape), or a non-culture-specific bamboo flute like those sold by Erik the Flutemaker. Doug Tipple’s PVC flutes make an excellent and economical substitute for bamboo, with nice tone (I dare you to hear the difference) and consistent intonation and response. You might be able to contact musicians who have worked on specific shows, and find out what solutions they came up with; the Internet Broadway Database is a good starting point.

    Your listing for The Lion King is much more specific, which brings me to my next question: dizi keys. I happen to be in China right now. Tunable dizi flutes are cheap, and one-piece dizi are cheaper. Do I need 12 tunable dizi? What keys are actually played in theater and film in the US? Read More “Reader email: Chinese woodwinds”

  • Making sense of third-octave flute fingerings

    I recall as a beginning flutist (coming from background in saxophone) finding the third-octave fingerings to be a confusing, illogical jumble, but they do actually make some sense. There is an incorrect explanation for these fingerings that I hear every so often, and have seen published on a couple of flute-related blogs recently. It goes something like this: the flute’s third-octave fingerings are some kind of combination of two different first/second-octave fingerings. For example:

    ta4 + te5 = te6 ?
    1424179983 1424179997 1424180007

    Or…

    tbf4 + tf5 = tf6 ?
    1424180013 1424180018 1424180777

    If I squint my eyes just right I can sort of see how this almost makes sense fingerings-wise and overtones-wise, but ultimately this system is unnecessarily confusing and also doesn’t reflect acoustical realities.

    Here’s a better way to look at third-octave flute fingerings: they are the same as the first/second octave fingerings, with a vent opened. This is very similar to how upper registers are achieved on the reed instruments: by adding an octave or register key or releasing a whisper key to open a vent. Since the flute doesn’t have dedicated vent holes, toneholes are used.

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    te5 →  open vent → te6
    1424179997 1424183194 1424180007
    tf5 → open vent → tf6
    1424180018 1424183208 1424180777
    tfs5 → open vent → tfs6
    1424184167 1424183218 1424184173
    tg5 → open vent → tg6
    1424184151 1424183227 1424184158

    It is probably worth pointing out that having any “system” for remembering fingerings is just a crutch; for a performing musician, the only practical “system” is to thoroughly habituate them to the point that no conscious thought is required. Practice carefully and be on the alert for dubious pedagogy.

    Make your own handsome woodwind fingering diagrams with the Fingering Diagram Builder

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    Reedmaking and choosing your college oboe or bassoon professor

    US college/university music departments and conservatories are filled with talented, qualified faculty. If you are an oboist or bassoonist bound for a large school then there will almost certainly be both oboe and bassoon professors there with outstanding credentials and years of high-level teaching and performing experience.

    Smaller schools are also well-stocked with excellent music faculty, and can provide a very, very good education. But one thing to bear in mind is that in smaller music departments, the faculty members often have to wear multiple hats, sometimes teaching instruments that they don’t perform on.

    Those professors still have much to teach you, and while it’s not an ideal situation it’s also not unheard of. However, for double reed students, there’s an additional wrinkle: the need to learn reedmaking.

    Reedmaking is a crucial skill for oboists and bassoonists. At larger schools it’s not unusual for the oboe and bassoon professors to offer classes in reedmaking, or at least to spend a significant chunk of lesson time on it. And while still learning this art, you will probably need someone to provide you with reeds or adjust ones you purchase elsewhere. (The ones from your local music store or online retailer aren’t likely to play at the level you will need for college study.)

    So, if you’re considering a school where you might study with someone who isn’t a performer on your double reed instrument, it would be worthwhile to find out their plan for teaching you reedmaking. If they don’t have a detailed and convincing one, you might think about some other schools, especially if you are planning to pursue a performance degree, or ask your teacher about ways to fill that gap in your education.

24 Comments

  1. Thanks for what I hope is turning into a series on wind controllers. I don’t know anyone who as one, which makes it hard to learn what they will do. Do you have any thoughts on the simpler (and less expensive) USB models by Akai and Yamaha. By the way, which patch did you use for the audio clip?

    1. Hi JK,

      Definitely keep an eye open for more wind controller stuff here in the future. You might also check out some related links and visit the websites and blogs of some other wind controller players.

      I don’t have anything more than a passing acquaintance with the Akai USB or the Yamaha WX series. My understanding is that the Akai USB has essentially the same capabilities as the Akai 4000s, except that is has to be plugged into a computer and has fewer octave rollers. I don’t know that the Yamaha is any simpler than the Akai, but it is actually more expensive because it requires an external sound module (sold separately).

      For the audio clip, I used the “Phazar” patch (#58) from the Patchman sound bank.

      Thanks for your comment!

  2. Great article! I’m almost embarrassed to admit that I have been using the sax fingerings on EWI, mostly because of G#. On sax, the right hand fingers close the G# key even when you keep you have G# pressed, so when I play in sharp keys, I have a tendency to keep my left pinky on the G# key. The sax mode on EWI lets me get away with this, and behaves like a sax, whereas the EWI mode does not.

    Maybe I’ll take a shot at EWI mode again, though. Like you say, the increased flexibility might make the transition worth it. Thanks for the insights.

    @JK – The Akai EWI-USB is indeed similar to the EWI4000s except with 2 less octaves, no built in sound module and connects to a computer via USB, so you don’t need a MIDI interface. It’s ideal if you want to use your computer as your sole sound source.

    1. Right—this is the trade-off of the EWI fingerings versus the flute/oboe/saxophone fingerings. The EWI fingerings are powerful but don’t tolerate much laziness.

      For me, there’s enough of a learning curve with the breath control, the octave rollers, etc. that the flute/oboe/saxophone fingering modes don’t smooth the transition to a significant extent. Might as well learn the EWI fingerings while I’m getting to know the instrument.

      The saxophone mode, at least, seems to be the most faithful to “real” saxophone fingerings (you only really lose some palm keys, the side F-sharp, and the low B-flat). The flute and oboe modes are farther from real woodwind fingerings, and could really only become more accurate with hardware modifications.

      Thanks for the confirmation/clarification about the EWI-USB.

  3. Bret: Thanks for all your notes. Really appreciated.

    The sound file seems to be outdated and cannot be found. Can you update it, please? I would like to hear it.

    Also, since the EWI fingering is just programmed in (so, there is no need for an specific route to follow since there is not real tubing to be enlarged or shorted to change the pitch, as in any “real” wind instrument…) do you think that it could be possible to program the EWI to form even some other alternative fingering schedule/chart?

    (Going back to the “real” wind instrument that I mentioned before: I think that I should have used “analog” wind instrument instead, since the EWI – at least IMHO – it is a very “real” instrument indeed)

  4. I didn’t have any previous woodwind experience before I got an EWI. What I found fastest was to memorize the C maj scale starting with all fingers down, then internalize the +/- halfstep/wholestep “extra” keys. I sometimes run into parts that I have to refinger (trills, as you point out, sometimes), but for 95% of the things I play, this one set of fingers works fine.

    Nice web site, just stumbled across it.

  5. I am flautist and started out using the flute fingering but quickly gave up and switched to the EWI fingering a) because I kept on tripping myself up with D (you can’t lift the index finger of your left hand on the EWI and still get a D) and b) because of the way, as Bret says in this article, that you can use the little fingers of both your hands to make difficult transitions easier, for instance playing a C♯ with RH side key to give a D at the top of the octave without having to play over the break.
    Great article. Thanks Bret.

  6. I played clarinet originally and started with the EWI fingering from scratch.

    As outlined in this article, there is an abundance of alternate fingerings, either leaving keys open or use of various forks + the side keys.

    I started to write a ‘chart’ for all of them but gave up – it bordered at writing a thesis…

    I found depending on the actual key you are playing in (or the lick) there are some optimal fingerings or rather fingering sequences available – only patience and experimentation (and a good memory) will get you there, but it’s worth it.

    To be able to play e.g. 4 bars of 16th at 180 jumping seamlessly from B to Eb to D then to F# will impress listeners… (as long as it sounds good)…

    PS I have to admit (this is really embarassing) I also ‘cheat’ sometimes: playing a fast lick with e.g. B or Db chords in it I simply leave the left pinky on K6 and ‘play’ C or D ‘scales’ instead, or slaving thru Ab minor I leave pinky on K5 and ‘play’ in A minor … you still need to know what you are doing and when to let go for blue notes/any extra chromatics required… but the EWI does the semitone up or down over a whole range brilliantly.

    Imho whoever designed this fingering system is a genius.

  7. Hello and thank you for your article. I’ve had an EWI for a month and I thought I would stick to the saxophone fingering since I would be able to reuse that knowledge later on a real saxophone.
    However, after trying the real thing, I think I’ll stick to the EWI. In that perspective it would be foolish not to take advantage of the EWI fingering. It’s more permissive but in the end, what counts is whether you do good music, not how easily it was obtained. Finally I’m more a “relative” player than an “absolute” one, so notes modifiers is a good way to approach it for me.

  8. Hi,
    just to let you know this article (and actually a lot more of them) will be a lifesaver for me, 5 years after it was written.
    I didn’t find the way the keys worked anywere else, and I need this much more than any diagram filled with 200 fingerings ^^

    I’ll be starting EWI in a few days after wanting to play it for a few years(sadly I didn’t have the money etc as a teenager back then) since I discovered artists like Masato Honda or Brecker. Ideally I’ll get to saxophone (but as a college student I’m not allowed to play such a loud instrument and I’d just bother everyone) but you really convinced me to use EWI fingering (I was actually wondering for a while on which one to pick), in hindsight it looks like forthmentionned musicians use the EWI fingering even though they played saxophone when EWI was still lyricon :p (Then again Honda is a monster with 4 different woodwinds and good with others each with different fingerings)

    So really thanks for this.

  9. Not completely relevant, but I just got a Kentron MIDI USB HOST that allows me to play the EWI USB through my Alesis QSR without a computer.

    1. This seems to be what I have been looking for to connect my EWI-USB directly to my Roland MIDI synth. How did it work for you? And does the Kenton adapter appropriately power the EWI? Thanks!

  10. I AM UNABLE TO LOCATE THE 9 PAGES OF FINGERING CHART DIAGRAM FOR THE AKI EWI 4000 HORN CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME

  11. Finding this article was for me like a blind man regaining sight! I’m new to the Akai-USB EWI, and only intermediate on woodwinds in general, so your explanation of adding/subtracting tones from C# was very enlightening to me; as you say, make whatever fingerings work for you! Thank you.

    On a side note, I’m looking for a way to plug my Akai EWI-USB into my 1980s Roland MIDI synth. Not only do I need some sort of USB-B male (or USB-A female) to MIDI male cable, but I also need to power the EWI. Do you know of any such adapter out there? Thank you again. (And yes I will check out the Kentron MIDI USB HOST that someone mentioned.)

  12. Where in gods name can I find a complete fingering chart for EWI mode? Seems like the manual omits so so many options.

    1. Since the EWI allows (from B to D#) 16 ‘tones’ in one ‘go’ and humans got 10 fingers, the resulting number of fingering possibilities can’t be unlimited , but of course it would be a hell of a lot of permutations. Most of those would result in ‘unfriendly’ and / or dud fingerings, but quite a few are very useful.

      Here is a chart which may add a few fingerings to the ‘repertoire’: (by M.G. Bauer):

      http://mjbauer.biz/REMI%20Bauer%20EWI%20Fingering%20Chart.pdf

      1. hey that looks great! i’m a little confused by the app though. Looking at C#, I don’t see the “open” fingering (IE no keys pressed should be C#). It’s also unclear from the shading of keys which indicate pressed and which don’t.

        I’ve since been OK on the fingering front, but think this is a great app. I think you should add a key to it to help folks understand.

  13. Thanks for the great article. It has really helped me with learning to play EWI as a first instrument.

    I happened upon one more interesting key behavior that may interest you. You list LH 1 as having an effect of -2 semitones. What I find in EWI Standard fingering mode is that if LH 2 is pressed then LH 1 has the effect of -3 semitones.

    I don’t know how much musical value this has, although I can say that the Beatles song “Hard Day’s Night” has a recurring 3 semitone interval that can be done with one finger using LH 1.

    Ed

    1. Hi Ed, if you take a closer look I think you’ll see that the behavior you describe is accounted for in my model (note the “exceptions” for LH2). Pressing LH2 alone has an effect of -1 semitone. Adding LH1 drops the pitch another 2 semitones, plus cancels the LH2 exception, for a total of -4 semitones. That’s a difference of -3 semitones between the two notes.

  14. Dear Sir
    I am an amateur musician. My instruments are the clarinet and saxophones. I woul like to digitize them for time reasons.
    I have seen his lessons on the internet: very interesting.
    Is it possible to first set the buttons on the AE-10 or AE-30 so that in addition to the
    sax I can practice clarinet fingering? Or is better AKAI EWI SOLO?
    Thanks a lot for your answer and I extend my congratulations and my best regards.

    Armando Bersani

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