Comments on: Reed adjustment checklist http://bretpimentel.com/reed-adjustment-checklist/ Saxophone, flute, oboe, clarinet, bassoon, folk and ethnic woodwinds Tue, 15 May 2012 15:55:14 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: Josephhttp://bretpimentel.com/reed-adjustment-checklist/#comment-252 Joseph Fri, 18 Dec 2009 15:53:47 +0000 http://www.bretpimentel.com/?p=1694#comment-252 For what it is worth, balancing my clarinet reeds (and to a lesser extent saxophone) has made my ensemble playing so much better! I used to struggle in orchestra with having a comfortable reed for a passage, resting for 40 measures, and then really struggling through a solo/soli and feeling quite embarassed! (and dont even mention something like Bolero where its such a long waiting game before you even play!). Learning to properly balance a reed has really helped with the necessity to re-position and hydrate my reeds 10 times in one concert. I typically use a combination of a bevel edge reed knife and 600grit sandpaper when i work on the backs of a reed. I do notice for alto saxophone reeds I almost always take some cane out of the "F" section in your little reed diagram. I don't know that I really follow those charts word for word, but taking some cane out of that gives me a less resistant reed in the lower register. I tend to like thinner reeds than most so it could just be a personal thing (or maybe i just need to learn to play with more air to support a thicker reed but at 26 i think i have all the air i'm going to get). For what it is worth, balancing my clarinet reeds (and to a lesser extent saxophone) has made my ensemble playing so much better! I used to struggle in orchestra with having a comfortable reed for a passage, resting for 40 measures, and then really struggling through a solo/soli and feeling quite embarassed! (and dont even mention something like Bolero where its such a long waiting game before you even play!). Learning to properly balance a reed has really helped with the necessity to re-position and hydrate my reeds 10 times in one concert. I typically use a combination of a bevel edge reed knife and 600grit sandpaper when i work on the backs of a reed. I do notice for alto saxophone reeds I almost always take some cane out of the “F” section in your little reed diagram. I don’t know that I really follow those charts word for word, but taking some cane out of that gives me a less resistant reed in the lower register. I tend to like thinner reeds than most so it could just be a personal thing (or maybe i just need to learn to play with more air to support a thicker reed but at 26 i think i have all the air i’m going to get).

]]> By: Michaelhttp://bretpimentel.com/reed-adjustment-checklist/#comment-233 Michael Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:41:46 +0000 http://www.bretpimentel.com/?p=1694#comment-233 I was recently looking through The Instrumentalist for pedagogical articles to give out to my Woodwind Methods course and came across a wonderful one called "Selecting Clarinet Reeds" by Robert Miller. It was published in the August 1991 edition.Very concise, insightful, and thorough, and it goes along with everything you've mentioned here. E-mail me if you'd like a copy of it. I scanned it for my course's Blackboard site. I was recently looking through The Instrumentalist for pedagogical articles to give out to my Woodwind Methods course and came across a wonderful one called “Selecting Clarinet Reeds” by Robert Miller. It was published in the August 1991 edition.

Very concise, insightful, and thorough, and it goes along with everything you’ve mentioned here. E-mail me if you’d like a copy of it. I scanned it for my course’s Blackboard site.

]]> By: Brethttp://bretpimentel.com/reed-adjustment-checklist/#comment-232 Bret Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:57:06 +0000 http://www.bretpimentel.com/?p=1694#comment-232 Hi Michael - thanks for stopping by and sharing what works for you. (Note: the PerfectaReed can be found <a href="http://www.reedwizard.com/" rel="nofollow">here</a>--scroll down).To clarify: my point is not at all that topography "doesn't matter;" my point is that what comes out of the box is essentially what the manufacturer intended, topography-wise. And if the design of the reed doesn't suit me, then I should probably just buy different reeds. Hi Michael – thanks for stopping by and sharing what works for you. (Note: the PerfectaReed can be found here—scroll down).

To clarify: my point is not at all that topography “doesn’t matter;” my point is that what comes out of the box is essentially what the manufacturer intended, topography-wise. And if the design of the reed doesn’t suit me, then I should probably just buy different reeds.

]]> By: Michaelhttp://bretpimentel.com/reed-adjustment-checklist/#comment-231 Michael Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:32:08 +0000 http://www.bretpimentel.com/?p=1694#comment-231 I personally use, and have had great success, with the Perfecta-Reed micrometer. I'm able to balance not just the tip, but the entire reed. It takes me a little more time, but I am able to get most of the reeds in my box to play substantially better using it.I completely agree with everything else you've mentioned other than the 'topography doesn't matter' comment.MP I personally use, and have had great success, with the Perfecta-Reed micrometer. I’m able to balance not just the tip, but the entire reed. It takes me a little more time, but I am able to get most of the reeds in my box to play substantially better using it.

I completely agree with everything else you’ve mentioned other than the ‘topography doesn’t matter’ comment.

MP

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